The Journal of Edward Ward, 1850
(onboard the Charlotte Jane from Plymouth to Lyttelton)
Published in The Journal of Edward Ward, 1951
SEPTEMBER 7TH, 1850. Left Plymouth on board the Charlotte Jane, 730 tons,
Commander Alexr. Lawrence, for Port Lyttelton, New Zealand, in company with
the Sir George Seymour, Randolph and Cressy, which with us conveyed
the first body of colonists to the new settlement of Canterbury, chartered by
the 'Canterbury Association'. Chaplain, Rev. Mr Kingdon; Surgeon, Alfred
Barker, Esquire; First Mate, Mr Bridger; Second Mate, Mr Woolcot; and twenty-
six cabin passengers, fourteen intermediate &-about eighty steerage.
Thursday, September 12th
On board the Charlotte Jane in about Lat. 42. I try to recollect the events of
the last five days, which from confusion, sickness & disagreeables of every
kind could not be recorded at the time - but being probably the most eventful
of our long voyage, deserve to be set down before they have entirely escaped
the memory.
On Saturday, September 7th, in the evening, about six o'clock, we weighed
anchor in Plymouth Sound, with everything in the ship in dire confusion.
Several items of neglect were weighing down my spirits. The birds, the care of
the Zoological Committee, had had to be provided with wheat, sand, rice, &c.,
and my poor cow was to have had green food and some trusses of straw put on
board for her. I had ordered these to go on board but till the last moment
they were not to be heard of, and a half-hour before the Captain came aboard
I sent Henry to kidnap some trusses of straw I had seen lying on the quay as
the boat left the shore. He soon returned bringing the straw but nothing else.
However, there was no help for it so off we set minus bird seed & sand. The
poor people who had come on board were still a subject of anxiety. They had
been shewn their berths only a few minutes before we weighed and, after
sitting three hours on the noisy deck, hungry and cold, had had hardly time to
make themselves comfortable before the ship was rolling about. A word to good
-natured Mr Palmer, the third mate, procured them a supper of beef-steaks,
which they devoured gladly and as I knew they would require a good deal of
pity during the succeeding few days I did not give them too large a dose that
night. The wind was fresh and fair and we bowled down gaily outside on a
course of S.S.W. and slipped away easily from land while Henry and I were
getting out our store of blankets and sheets and making up our beds for the
first night on board.
Not till the ship began to move on her course - till we had
passed the stern of the Sir George Seymour who gave and
received three hearty cheers - not till after we had passed the
lights of the harbour and the bustle of the deck grew less, did
the feeling of reality come over me which I had been long and
in vain waiting to receive. Sternly real did I feel my position
then - the sails filling for my new country, not to stop or stay
till we should arrive there. This feeling of reality was sudden
as thunder - at once the dream-films stole away from my head,
carrying everything like excitement away with it, and very
helpless did I feel standing on the deck that evening. The
responsibilities came past me one by one, most of all the
condition of the poor emigrants whom I had induced to follow
me. I wished then that I had felt the same some time before;
strange to say, I felt as if I would have given worlds to run
back home again and settle down to anything in England. It
was the first time that I had felt anything like repentance of
my enterprise - but thank God it was of not long duration.
I find at this distance from it, I cannot recollect a tenth of the
thoughts that crowded into my mind, but I can only remember
that they were innumerable and singularly new and over,
powering.
Saturday night we went to bed early - a quiet breeze
during the night had not inconvenienced any one seemingly,
for all appeared well at service at half past ten in the morning.
I had been sick during the night and did not venture to
breakfast, though many did; but when the service began it
revived us all. Mr Kingdon read the service - Deut. XVIII, 19,
and a very impressive ceremony it was. At the capstan covered
with the Union Jack stood the clergyman in his usual robes,
around and beside him, were the poorer emigrants in groups -
mothers and children - looking rather miserable, but evidently
reviving at the familiar sounds. The sailors were neatly dressed
and the men stood in the background - the sailors looking
picturesquely clean and devout, the men, on the other hand,
looking disheveled and inattentive. The cabin passengers were
ranged over the clergyman on the poop and some few behind
him at the cuddy door. They all seemed to feel the impressive-
ness of the scene - nearly all were in tears. Reminded as I was
of the dear ones who were then uttering the same words and
thinking of us, I felt like a child.
As of Saturday, I can say of this day, that I cannot set
down a tenth of the thoughts which beset me. Perhaps, as this
journal is for facts and not for thoughts, it is better that they
should be left unpainted. The day continuing fine and fresh
the greater number of the passengers were on deck and lively -
a great many, too, went to dinner, brave and satirical of the
seasick. FitzGerald was one of the bravest - Hamilton most
outrageously satirical and contemptuous of infirmity in his
strength. I felt more indolent than sick and so abstained from
going to dinner - for that day I chewed the cud of my most
bitter fancy, and nothing else - covered with the jeers of those
who fancied themselves recovered for the voyage.
In the evening the wind sprang up very fresh and I think
nearly all soon retired below. A sick night and weary thoughts
with a little sleep constitute all that I can recollect of Sunday
night.
Monday the wind was high and increased towards noon.
All very sick except Charles Mountfort and Hamilton - who
remained, the former helping all the sick, the latter despising
them. A wave through the scuttles in the morning rendered it
necessary to dry our bedding in the quarter boat. What misery
that day was! though I have nearly forgotten it now. To bed
early, after a little tea in the cuddy with the Captain. This
was the first food I had tasted since dinner on Saturday at
Plymouth. That night was tranquil but the emigrants were
very sick. Margaret Ferguson and Willy McCormick the
worst and Andy the best in the ship. Andy has been able to
eat his meals all through and declares he feels first rate. Tuesday
it was blowing very hard and a miserable day though I was
rather better. Hamilton and FitzGerald - the cocks who crowed
so loud at first - have had to succumb and have remained
below all day.
The Captain told us we were being fast carried out of the
Bay and were abreast of Cape Finisterre. I suspect this Cape
is the bugbear, or rather the sole consolation, of all voyagers on
the Bay of Biscay. Deluded individuals in the ship, I believe,
fancied we were to touch at it! I slept on deck, beside Wortley
and his dog Toddy and passed the most comfortable moments
that had occurred to me since I left Cheltenham. The wind,
which was high when we retired to the shelter of our water,
proofs, had died away when we awoke, a very heavy dew was
falling, which ought to have given us dreadful colds, but
did not.
Wednesday had more victims than any day yet. A long
rolling swell sent the ship from side to side in a most distressing
manner, but the sun was warm and kept us alive. I had quite
recovered and appeared at breakfast and dinner, but the ladies
were all in a dreadful state, lying basking about the deck,
refusing to be comforted. The doctor (Barker) was very bad -
the worst of the whole crew. Nevertheless we had a wedding
in the morning between two of our emigrants but every one
too uneasy themselves to mind the happiness of this most
impatient couple. In the evening a petite reunion in Mrs
Mountfort's cabin - the piano going and very cheerful -
Charles Mountfort handing about his various stores, especially
a confection - drinkable - made of Jargonelle pears, which
mixes well in water. Nearly all the passengers at dinner
looking much better. The Captain says it is about the last
of our soup - a pity, for it is the most refreshing food that the
invalids have had. The potatoes, too, are excellent, certainly
are made the most of - appearing regularly at breakfast as well
as dinner. They cannot last long the Steward says.
Thursday, September 12th. (This day) I hope to begin in
earnest au courant to the petty events of each day, such as they
are. A good show at breakfast, all present except Mr Benjamin
Mountfort, his wife and sister, and Mrs Kingdon, who has
not yet appeared in the cuddy. Breakfast of hashed beef,
beefsteaks & beef kidney (making the most of the beef which
must soon be denied us), potatoes - very good - soft bread,
biscuit and butter, tea and coffee, cold beef fresh and corned.
Opened a box of sardines for Mrs Chas. Mountfort and used
some of the Killinchy butter which, having been broken in
the crocks, was consigned to the Steward for cabin use. It was
very generally approved of. A few petrels appearing in our
wake, FitzGerald got out a gun to practise, and wounded one
after repeated shots. Wortley practising at a seltzer water
bottle with his pistols. The air is cool and invigorating. The
Captain has showed us our position on the chart in Lat. 42.32,
off Vigo. The emigrants going on well - Margaret able to go
about my cabin and clean it out. The wind at quarter past
one (London time, half an hour fast) is freshening into a nice
breeze, and the ship is settling well on her S.W. course.
Some talk of a newspaper to be started - FitzGerald's
suggestion I thought that it would be both troublesome and
ticklish, though amusing; it would be better not to have a
serial but an occasional. The Cockroach suggested as a spicy
title. The subject at present falls to the ground. Signalled for
an hour and a half to a ship on our weather beam, made her
out (most satisfactorily!) to be the Wyoming, bound from
Liverpool to Ryde with a cargo of sugar. After she had hoisted
at parting the ensign of the Duchy of Mecklenburgh she left
us with new notions of the maritime daring and commercial
enterprise of the obscure little Duchy. I daresay her acquain-
tance with us was made in as equally a satisfactory manner.
We hoisted 'The Charlotte Jane, from Plymouth, out seven
days, with emigrants', and corrected longitude, etc., before
bidding adieu. A goodly party at dinner, the soup and potatoes
still to the fore, the first appearance of the salt beef was hailed
with fervour and the 'Prime India Beef' was the joke of the
table. After dinner a walk with Mrs Mountfort upon deck,
aided by an exuberance of spirits and the absence (pro tem) of
seasickness, increased to a dance or promenade to the tune of
the various choruses which our party (soon numerically
augmented) could furnish. 'Sir Roger de Coverley', 'Lucy
Long', 'The Boatman's Dance' and other songs of that strain,
kept us lively on our feet till nine o'clock when, after looking
into Mrs Mountfort's cabin to drink happy returns of her
sister's birthday in a glass of sherry, I retired to bed at four bells
(ten o'clock by ship's time). Wind light at going to bed, the
ship steering W.N.W. During the night it freshened con-
siderably and morning came.
Friday, September 13th
Dirty with a good deal of rain and a raw fog. Most of
the company upset again. Hamilton practically sick, I myself
and Henry eating our breakfast With fear for consequences.
A shark killed last night gave us a fry for breakfast, which
smelt savoury but looked dangerous. The sun at eleven
o'clock has come out strong and the wind has settled into
a fresh breeze with a good deal of not disagreeable motion.
The company on deck fore and aft look lively. Andy called
me aside this morning to speak the complaint of the single
men. It seems they are condemned to clean out the filth of
some of the married men, who are privileged, as constables,
inspectors, &c. He thought they had more put upon them
than the regulations prescribed, and I promised to speak to
the Doctor about it. The Doctor has explained to me that the
single men have rather less to do than they ought; and show,
at any rate that he is a despot on board with the powers of
the Passengers' Act at his discretion. There is, therefores
no use in appealing or complaining from the Doctor's fiat
which, I am bound to say, is guided by the very kindliest
motives. Read Fanny's chapter on deck with great pleasure.
Twelve o'clock, noon. Lat. 41.31, off Cape St Vincent.
The Captain is discontented with his southward progress and
compares, grumblingly, his luck upon former voyages, especial-
ly a time when he made Madeira in four days from Gravesend.
Wind continued fresh till evening, not much sun; the ship's
company not so lively as the night before; a good deal of
lightning seen to windward.
Saturday, September 14th
(Extract from the log): 'Lat. 40.40 (nearly off Lisbon),
nearly calm, a heavy swell from the West. Course S.W.
by W.½ W.' The single man who refused to work yesterday
has been 'ordered aft', and stands behind the wheel, a melan-
choly example of disobedience. Andy says 'there will be bad
work yet', the single men will not do all that is required of
them and the crew are discontented at being allowed no grog.
Told Andy to keep up the credit of the place we came from
by obedience and good example. Another instance of mutiny
grieves me more. Margaret reports that Margaret Ferguson has
struck work and when asked to hold the children and make
herself useful, tells her that she is not her servant and won't
do it. This, after all the trouble Margaret has been at for her,
and Robert Wilson too, to take her out of poverty and desti-
tution in Ireland, is the blackest and basest ingratitude. The
people are looking today more cheerful, having a little employ-
ment. Willy McCormick is made happy by having the cow
consigned to his care, and he scrubs and handles her as if it
had been 'Shusan' at Killinchy. Bob, too, comes in for a little
more attention than he used to have when rated among the
'stock' and tended by an indifferent person. Mrs McCormick
and Margaret are hemming rubbers with all their might, and
Robert Wilson is knitting away cheerily. Andy has had a job
in fixing the lock of our cabin door and has done it con amore.
Mutton chops at breakfast. Biscuit generally preferred to bread,
which latter is getting sour - the cook says because of the water.
Pillow cases found after a rummage in the chest, on the top of
the trays. I knew Mamma would not have left them out so
carelessly as we gave her hasty credit for. In the evening a trial
of the French cafetiere which, after an expenditure of about half
a pint of spirits of wine, produced a cup of most indifferent
coffee in an hour and a half. Mrs Mountfort and her husband
took tea in my cabin - combining our stores we made a
respectable show upon the sideboard (the washing stand) of
plum cake, biscuits and butter, honey, gooseberry jam and
marmalade, and the evening passed merrily enough - hysterical
merriment, too, for the chief cause of mirth was the battalions
of cockroaches, careering about, prying from every corner into
every corner, deploying over the tea tray, countermarching
upon the slices of cake, enfilading the butter and scaling the
jam-pot. Some hoary generals were there - admirals, perhaps,
were their better rank, from having made many voyages.
They are certainly a great nuisance to look at, but at present
have really done nothing disagreeable. After tea a noisy evening
on deck. FitzGerald and Wortley fighting a main of cocks
(themselves!), Wortley winning by two falls. Laughter most
uproarious but hysteric. To bed at four bells.
Sunday, September 5th
After a most uncomfortable night of rolling in a calm
swell, woke to find the ship steering her course with a
fresh breeze in the right quarter from the N.N.E. Service
at half past ten, well attended, the people cleaner and more
attentive than last Sunday. Read Fanny's chapter and
Sophia's Christian Year on deck with much real pleasure
and thought of them all at home intensely. The young
man (Turnbull) who headed the 'mutineers' yesterday, has
returned to his duty. Bob, looking very wretched in his mange.
He can hardly last the voyage and I am afraid. Mrs McC.
looking very bad but Margaret and the children thriving and
happy. At dinner, mutton roast and boiled, carry fowls.
A delicacy was preserved carrots which were excellent.
Evening service but no sermon by Mr Kingdon, a lounge on
deck with Tupper's Proverbial Philosophy, tea, and after tea an
attempt at a chorus from the Oratorio of St Paul, with Mr and
Mrs FitzGerald and Mrs Barker. Resolutions recorded to
practise regularly. To bed with the wind fair towards the
S.S.W., but moderate. The Captain says four days of this
weather will take us to the Trades. Lat. 38.35, Long. about
16 W.
Monday, September 16th
A spanking breeze after a quiet night. Spoke a ship, passing
close under her stern-the Antonietta from Rio to Palermo. The
Captains on deck compared longitudes, written on a black
board (15 W.) and the Neopolitan, taking off his hat, steered
his'course again. We were in hopes she was a homeward bound
Englishman. It seemed ridiculous to us all to find any ship but
an English one presuming to sail on the sea. A very provoking
part of our condition is that our number does not appear in
the last edition of the Signal Book, so if we speak any ship
by signal we shall be represented as the Charlotte or the Jane
merely.
Mrs McCormick very ill and weak. Sent her some sardines
and bread and butter, which she ate; also a dose of salts from
the doctor, and got her an allowance of porter to keep up her
strength. The men netting busily forward and all very cheerful.
The Editor's box for the Cockroach is set up today on a swing
tray, to invite contributions to its pages; it will be published
as soon as the box is full enough. Dinner displayed fresh pro,
visions in the shape of pork. Roast leg of pork, pork chops
and pork pie. Curry (very good), pea soup & boiled fowls
completed the well-furnished repast. Nearly all the passengers
except the Doctor attended. Lat. 36.30, Long. 14.56 W. On
deck in the evening, a dance to our own melodious voices -
country dance, polka and quadrille. Much ill-will caused by
a practical joke of some one, who threw a bucket of water
along the deck amongst the quadrille, and made them shift to
the other side of the deck. Glee singing by Mr and Mrs
FitzGerald and Mrs Barker in the cuddy below. The Captain
promises us a sight of Madeira to-morrow.
Tuesday, September 17th
On deck early, a lovely morning. Hamilton took a
shower bath, which is rigged on deck like an ordinary
bath made of canvas; through a perforated roof the sailors
throw buckets of water down. Came in sight, but not
quite signal distance, of a large ship with her fore topmast
carried away. Spitefully presumed it was the Randolph, but the
Captain does not think so. Sighted the highlands of Porto
Santo, one of the Madeira Islands, and are rapidly running
down upon it. The weather is truly delicious. The sun is
warm but shaded from the deck by an awning and cooled by
a fresh breeze which, at the same time favourably filling our
sails, is truly luxurious. A sky-sail is set above the main royal.
Wrote out an extract from 'What to Observe' upon the Trade
Winds for the information of the readers of the Cockroach.
Lat 33.26. In the evening on the forecastle, observing our
approach to the S.E. point of Madeira. The high mountains
called the Kraal (I believe) look noble enough for so small an
island. Provokingly passed the shore four miles off after dark
so that we could only see what we missed seeing. Trees,
vegetation and houses would have been distinctly observed if
daylight had lasted two hours longer. In the evening, after
tea, Stout, the fiddler, produced his soundest fiddle of three
strings all the same size, but managed in spite of the evident
difficulties, to set a dozen pair of feet jigging it to a country
dance and polka. 'The Girl I Left Behind Me' made a capital
polka; we had also a Spanish dance to 'Buy a Broom'-how
I was reminded by it of old Killinchy's last days. I could almost
fancy I was waltzing round with little Sophia Mordaunt on
my arm - my usual partner in that dance. Stayed up dancing
and singing till eleven o'clock and retired in hearty good
humour. Till twelve gave Bob a run on the decks, which I
think did him good.
Wednesday, September 8th
On deck early, a lovely morning giving promise of heat.
We had run Madeira out of sight, and the Captain announces
that we are at last in the Trades. The day overpoweringly hot,
the awning above hardly keeps us cool. Wortley produced his
seltzer water, which mixes well with our raspberry vinegar. Got
out our onion seed and aired it upon the deck-a few specks of
mildew only to be found. Gave Hamilton his first French
lesson, found him very bright and anxious to learn. Gave
Margaret Wilson out some worsted to begin knitting socks;
she pronounces it all 'chewed by the cocks', meaning cut by
the cockroaches, and so it was. Lat. 30.16. Fine weather
and light breeze. A quiet evening on deck, and in the cuddy
the first meeting of the 'Glee Club'. FitzGerald prime mover
of all. Each is to copy his part from the private book on the
cuddy table. To bed at half past ten. Prayers commenced this
evening at nine o'clock consisting of the church service with
one lesson, the priest en robe.
Thurday, September 29th
Morning prayers after the cuddy breakfast, consisting of the
Liturgy without the Litany and two lessons. No benches placed
as at Sunday church. The weather is beautiful, not so hot as
yesterday, and the breeze very light-almost a calm. Palma, one
of the Canaries, in sight on the starboard bow, about twenty-
five miles off The far-sighted ones can discern Teneriffe on the
larboard bow Talk of letting down the gig and starting for
shore at Santa Cruz, the port of' Palma. Practised with
Wortley's pistols at a bottle slung up to the mainyard. Lat.
29•47. The breeze freshening, the shore scheme is abandoned,
and about eight o'clock p.m. we were passing the light on the
high lands of Palma, distant about seven miles. The evening
cooler than usual. Several dolphin seen caracolling near the
ship in the course of the afternoon. A man stood in the fore-
chains with a harpoon ready for them, but in vain, for none
came near. There is a great squeeze in the cuddy table, twelve a
side at a table intended to hold twenty. Complaints of this, of
the ship's filter and the Association's tea are rife, but not as yet
violent. The Captain expects to be off Ferro, the last of the
Canaries to-morrow. It is most unfortunate that we should
have passed close to the very two islands which would have
repaid the sight, at night, instead of in the morning, when the
sun would have lighted up all the beauties. Gave Bob a dose
of salts to cool him; he is evidently recovering from his mange
and looking livelier. Gave the guns and pistols a good over,
hauling and cleaning; found them in very good case indeed.
Friday, September 20th
On deck early and found we were steering close to the
island of Ferro, the southernmost of the Canary Islands. A little
town, which on reference to the chart we found was called
Valverde, was perched high on the steep hillside, from which
the cliff mountain descended perpendicularly to the water. No
sign of a landing place or, at first, of any vegetation the only
appearance being that of a sterile brown. We wondered much
how men could choose their homes in such a spot as this, and
consent to make a town of it. As we viewed the island closer
we discovered that the village was beautifully placed in a dell
or valley and green vegetation was abundant. Dwarf trees and
shrubs we supposed to be vines, soon appeared, and the houses
swelled into large and respectable mansions in considerable
numbers. A large grey building, situated in a quinta or villa
garden, was pronounced to be a convent. The peak of Teneriffe
shows well today; though at an amazing distance, towering
among haze and clouds. The sun not too hot, the weather truly
enjoyable above and below. The cabin on our lower deck is,
I think; the pleasantest place while the scuttles are open, but the
least exertion in so confined an atmosphere makes one disagree,
ably hot. Our place on the chart today by observations corrected
by bearings from the land we are passing is Long• 17-44 West,
Lat. 27.48 N. The wind blowing freshly from N.E. Every
one gay and happy, except Margaret Wilson, who complains
of headache and pains in back and breast. Took a shower
bath for the first time and found it exceedingly pleasant. A
dance on deck in the evening and to bed at half past ten.
Saturday, September 21st
A fortnight today from Plymouth - the days pass quickly
and pleasantly. The wind blows fresher and a point or two
more to the East. The weather cool and delightful. Hamilton
says his French lesson very punctually and well-he evidently
gives his mind to it. My bath this morning at the forecastle.
pump. I think it is an improvement upon the shower bath.
Fencing, single-stick & boxing with the gloves constitute the
amusements of the ship. Margaret Wilson a little better, but
sickly looking. The children are all thriving. Lat. 25.14 N. In
the evening much amusement among the steerage passengers
with the boxing gloves-but the Captain found it necessary to
make a rule that emigrant only should stand up with emigrant
and sailor with sailor, fearful of feuds between the two parties.
Some Whales were seen today at a great distance, spouting.
Sunday, September 22nd
Woke to find ourselves in the tropics at last. A fresh
breeze-or what landsmen would call a high wind - was
blowing dead aft and making the vessel roll and pitch
uncomfortably enough But as it kept the deck cool and
tempered the action of a tropical sun, we were to consider
ourselves fortunate. Lat. 22.27. Service on deck at half
past ten of the Liturgy without Communion Service, and
a sermon by Mr Kingdon. The Psalms for the day very
appropriate - 'They that go down to the sea in ships', etc. On
deck till two and read my Christian Tear for the day and for
St Matthew's Day, also the 'Forms of Prayer to be used at Sea'
Forgot yesterday to mention the appearance of the first number
of the Cockroach, in a cover beautifully emblazoned with the
cockroach 'proper' by FitzGerald in sepia. A good leading
article by FitzGerald, a chapter on the Canary Islands and an
effusion called the 'Cockroach's Meditations' by Cholmondeley
were most admired. It gives hopeful promise by being free
from personal allusion or witless gossip. Herewith:
THE MEDITATION OF A COCKROACH
I am no less than a cockroach bold,
Creeping and crawling from deck to hold,
Hunting each cabin and hammock and bed.
Under the pillow where rests your head,
Under the tablecloth, up the chair, •
I run up your sleeves and I crawl through your hair;
Neither man nor child does the cockroach spare,
But most I visit the ladies fair;
And they all behold me with shudder and scream
And start from my presence as from an ill dream,
So ugly and black I can make myself seem.
This is surely a destiny great,
This is indeed a station
Worthy the wish of the subtle fate
Of the mighty chief of the noble state
Of the ancient Cockroach nation!
For I am the Prince of the -Cockroaches all,
And they bow before me in bower and hall.
And the Captain owns me for what I am,
And takes off his cap with a low salaam.
And when I appear the sailors say
'Make room, my lads, without delay
For the King of the Cockroaches comes this way'.
Father Hesper! Father Hesper!
Hear my prayer I vow:
Hearken to my chirping whisper
Rising from below.
My religious fits come seldom,
So you'd better listen now.
For my lungs are feeble-smaller
Than the organs of a man,
I was never yet a bawler,
Hear me, therefore, while you can.
If I lie, I wish the cook may
Pop me in the pan.
By the pensive ray
Of Cynthia's gleams,
By the dawn of day
Flushed with rosy beams,
By the frolickings of Phosphor
On the broken sea,
I beseech ye--prosper
All who sail with me.
By the starry choir that lances
A pale nightly glance
On the bark that heaves and dances
As the billows dance,
Guide us guide our ship and cargo
On the infinite expanse.
And may every jovial sailor, gentleman and lady fair
Treat the gentle cockroach kindly, mindful of his heartfelt prayer.
Thus sublimely, in the dreamy slumbers of the midnight bed
Rose the meditation; and I heard the words the being said.
And my soul was greatly shaken, and my limbs were cramped with dread.
For methought a mighty cockroach squatted close beside my head.
And I sought to clutch him, but the monster with the vision fled.
Today I saw the first flying fish and during the whole
afternoon was amused by coveys of them flying across-or
rather flitting across-the water. They rather disappointed me,
as I imagined them to be larger and to fly higher. Very few
at dinner, the gale having upset a good many of the invalids
who had grown courageously well. The Doctor, as usual, the
worst invalid in the ship. Several leaks appear in our cabin,
and the drip from the ceiling is very uncomfortable, yet not
much misfortune after all. The Captain says ten days of this
breeze will take us to the line. Porpoises appeared at nightfall
playing about the ship. A strong fair breeze carries us gaily on.
Monday, September 23rd
After a very hot night, in which very heavy rain was
heard on deck, was much refreshed by a shower bath. A
flying fish flew on deck, and of course was nabbed. He
appeared something like a herring without scales, with
wings, of course, of a very fine membrane. A shark -
the newest wonder of the deep - hove his dorsal fin in
sight about breakfast time, but only a favoured few caught
sight of him. Mrs McCormick still very ill with seasickness,
and faint for want of eatable food. Lat. 18.47. We have run
203 miles in the last twenty-four hours, to the South. In the
evening after sundown the wind had fallen nearly to a calm,
and the close heat was most oppressive. The passengers lounged
about in uneasy postures, like in a fever hospital, and all
walking, arid of course dancing, was out of the question.
Cholmondeley, Wortley, Bowen, Mr and Mrs Kingdon,
FitzGerald and I clustered on a corner of the poop and played
at inventing a story, which passed from mouth to mouth
with abrupt transition. This afterwards changed to poetry and
after one had composed a line the rest had to invent a thyme
to it. It was excessively amusing, and would have gone far
into the night had not Bob and Crib abused their privilege
of coming to the poop °and begun to fight, to the discomfiture
and dispersion of all the ladies. We stayed on deck a long
time, and found it afterwards hard to leave it for the close
'tween decks. The Captain assures us it will be at least ten
degrees hotter!
Tuesday, September 24th
Thermometer at breakfast at eighty-five in the cuddy.
Heard that a child had died in the night. It had been
sickly before but, strange to say, that the father and mother,
though aware of the extreme danger of the child, did not
wake any one or take any means to gain assistance till
morning. It is believed that, not even when it was dead,
did they take the trouble of informing the doctor. After
breakfast the funeral was performed and the body of the poor
child, swathed in a Union Jack with a shot at its feet, was
plunged into the sea. At the very moment a huge school of
porpoises appeared, playing just abreast of the ship opposite
the port hole where the body was lowered down. This was
the first appearance of these porpoises, and strange to say, as
soon as the body was cornmitted to the deep, they disappeared.
Superstitious people might have made something of this
apparition. Romantic and ingenious people might have said
that a troop of angels had appeared to bear away the soul of
the child through the deep to heaven. The air is fearfully hot,
and the emigrants feel it greatly. The sea is nearly cahn and
we are creeping on at about half a knot. Lat 8-showing
only forty-seven miles since yesterday. A brig right forward,
about three miles, supposed to be a brig-of-war. People getting
letters ready to send by her if she should prove a cruiser. If
not, she is no use as our course is the same as hers - outward
bound. A great fuss and heat engendered in getting the
emigrants' boxes, &c., out of the hold. After dinner, invited
by the Captain to a cool bottle of claret, and he subsequently
took his stand upon the martingale to strike dolphins. He
saw several, but missed every blow. The heat on deck in the
evening very stifling almost, if not quite, too excessive to allow
of a walk up and down. Several slept on deck, and nearly
all the steerage emigrants (the single men) slept on the fore,
castle covered with sheets and sails. I slept down below,
however, but it as a restless and unrefreshing sleep. The wind
freshened from a calm to a pleasant breeze and continued so
till morning.
Wednesday, September 25th
The air fresher this morning and we are going about
six knots. The brig is about the same distance ahead of
us as yesterday. Lat. 16.0-100 miles in the last twenty-
four hours. In the afternoon the breeze continues steady
and she sails about seven and a half knots. Passengers
beginning to shun tea in the cuddy but have it taken
up on deck to them. A little land bird caught on the
rigging - it was a grey water-wagtail. We put it among the
other little birds to give it a chance of getting some food--
he died in about an hour after. Worked hard all day to get
my papers and letters in some sort of order. Finished a poem
for the Cockroach of the miscellaneous facetious sort. First day
for mounting white jackets, in which we all three appeared at
breakfast. Our position on the map is shown abreast (inside)
of the Cape de Verd Islands.
Thursday, September 26th
Slept on deck last night till eight bells (four o'clock a.m.).
Though the air was cooler than below, it was not comfortable
to feel exposed to the heavy dew which was falling. Went down
and slept heavily till breakfast time. A whale was reported seen
near the ship about six o'clock. An accident to the fore cabin
steward, who was stunned and nearly killed by a spar falling
upon him, and the report of a ghost being seen in the forecastle
constitute the events of this day. Lime juice has commenced to
be served out forward, to the comfort of the emigrants. A dread-
ful headache I impute to the imprudent snooze on deck. A
barque (perhaps the Cressy) is seen on the lee bow, not far off.
Lat. 14.4. Very 1ight wind in flaws, occasionally almost quite
calm. Some 'Portuguese men of war' of the nautilus genus, are
seen skimming gracefully past the ship, and serve for a time
to annexe our languid and indolent eyes. The Captain (as
usual, a saying of the Captain's) says that we have had nothing
like Trades this voyage and curses his stars that he came
inside the Canaries. Two of our fowls and the cock very ill
and going blind. Got Andy to make a new hutch for the
invalids, in which they seem to do better. The rest of the
animals, including the cow and both dogs, are doing as well
as can be expected in the excessive heat. Buckets of water
judiciously applied keep their bodies cool and plenty of water
to drink gives them a little chance. No more complaints of
any kind from the steerage. I believe that we have got now
more accustomed to the heat and can bear it better. The wind
fell off towards evening to a dead calm. A notice appeared on
the poop forbidding smoking there from nine to nine. This
gives very general dissatisfaction, especially as it is supposed
to emanate from the caprice of an unpopular lady. Vows to
write to the Cockroach recorded on all sides.
Friday, September 27th
A bucket-splashing match on deck early - the Captain
not well pleased. Wind light, but increased to a nice breeze
about twelve o'clock. All day below writing for and
editing to-morrow's Cockroach. A ship on the lee bow
was signalled and proves to be the Dido twenty-four days
out from Gravesend, (three day before us) for Swan River.
Weather either not so hot or more tolerable. Wind falls
away towards night to a dead calm. Lat. 12.27, Long. 41.27W.
Miss Bishop and Mrs B. Mountfort made a plum cake today
in the cuddy. Night hot; after tea no occupation but groups
sit about listlessly talking to one another. Sat the greater part
of the day 'editing' the new number of the Cockroach. Con-
tributions flow in apace.
Saturday, September 28th
Louie's birthday. Hurried on deck about seven o'clock
to see a squall come up. The carpenter had previously gone
the round of the main deck, warning people to close the
scuttles, &c., that I felt sure something peculiar was expected.
I went on deck and found the ship lying becalmed, the
sails flapping without wind but every one in a bustle.
The Captain and Mate both on the poop giving loud
and rapid orders - the seamen rushing about. Nothing was
to be seen for some time by a landsman's eye, till soon,
looking to windward might have been observed a dark
line of water rather higher than the level of the surround-
ing sea, walking quickly up to us. It was seen, and everything
made quite snug, and two men placed at the wheel before the
squall struck the ship. She lay over, scuppers under at once,
and rushed madly through the water, kept before the wind.
She was afterwards brought up, lay her course, and we went
gaily through the water for about three hours. Heavy rain
refreshingly accompanied the squall, and some thunder. The
publication of the Cockroach occupied the great part of the
morning in editorial conclaves. The weather not so hot,
though but little wind. The barque and a brig still in sight
but having had the heels of us during the night. We are all
much disappointed at seeing so few of the fish and other
wonders of the deep which travellers had told us to expect in
these latitudes. Not a shark, dolphin or porpoise and only a
stray flying fish now and then, to break the monotony of the
calm water. At dinner the Cockroach read and much approved
of. It was enriched by contributions from nearly every cuddy
passenger. The smoking edict dealt very hardly with in the
'original correspondence'. Lat. 11.38. Off the Gulf of Guinea.
A homeward bound ship descried by the Captain's eye far
to windward.
Sunday, September 29th
Morning fine with pleasant breeze; no need to say that
it was very hot, but not so much as to make us miserable.
Service fully performed by Mr Kingdon, and notice given
of the administration of the Sacrament next Sunday. The
emigrants all clean and neatly dressed, and appear to better
advantage en masse than I have ever seen them yet. Prickly
heat beginning to show itself on old and young. It has
attacked Hamilton and is just appearing on my hand.
Lat. 9.40 N.
Monday, September 30th
A squall came up at breakfast time, but brought up
very little wind and only some very heavy rain. All on
deck to see its effect and were evidently disappointed. A
great assortment of waterproofs and dreadnoughts were
brought up. My pet Cordings began to leak at once -
the worthless things that I paid so much for. Watched
Mrs Fisher making some bread and a cake, for which I was
rewarded by a slice of the latter hot when it was baked. Lat.
at noon 8.32. The day somewhat cooler, wind dead against
us, but the Captain says it is the prevailing wind on the
variable space; Wrote long additions to my letters. While I
remember it I will add the list of the contents of the last
Cockroach. An original editorial article by FitzGerald on the
'Smoking Edict'. A copy of the Captain's log for the week.
A paper No.1 on Gardening by Wortley, a paper No.1 on
Colonial Buildings by Benjamin Mountfort. The first of a
series of chit-chat article on the 'Wonders of the Deep' by
Dr Barker. Two letters, one by Bishop and the other by
myself; on the smoking prohibition. A burlesque poem
entitled 'A Cockroach's Confessions' by myself, and by the
same hand some burlesque 'Notices of Eminent Individuals
recently Deceased' A paper by the Captain on the 'Variables.
A poem by Mr Kingdon on the death of a certain (Mrs Barker's)
cat; and a letter by Mr Kingdon supposed to be written by a
Canterbury Colonist six months after arrival. Some extracts
(L.E.L. on 'The Polestar' and others) finished up a very
satisfactory number, also some lines by Bowen, a translation
of a scene in Corneille's Horace, and an original story by
Cholmondeley called 'The Life Adventures, etc., of Miss
Betsy Williams' by George Godfrey - to be continued. The
weather on deck and below wonderfully cool and pleasant
for the parallel of latitude. Varied our amusements in the
evening by a row in the gig-twice round the ship-the
weather being quite calm and the ship going at about one and
a half knots. Utter loneliness seemed the characteristic of her
situation, so small did she appear in the middle of the vast
ocean.
Tuesday, October 1st
A very hot night, as the scuttles had to be closed
for fear of squalls. Towards morning heavy rain came
on but stopped soon after breakfast. Latitude at noon
The gig out again this evening but I did not care to go
again. Rather cooler all day. Caughey met with an ugly
accident this morning. Standing in the lower hold among the
water casks, an empty one from an upper tier fell upon him
and bruised his side and cut his leg. He had a most providential
escape of his life. The Doctor reports him as at present, to all
appearance, not seriously injured, but dreads any injury
internally to the kidneys The cock is coming round and
beginning to see and eat.
Wednesday, October 2nd
Found a fine breeze rolling us onward though a point
or two out of our best course. It increased after breakfast
and stiffened into something strong. Some confusion on
the forecastle from some stay giving way, which had
nearly lost us our foreyard. Lat. 6.30. The Captain sus-
pects that we are being carried by some current rapidly to
the eastward. Caughey is better today and complains only of
bruises. The cock feeding and seeing a deal better. After
dinner the Captain taught us the game of shovel-board, which
is a sort of deck quoits or bowls; lasted and amused us till dark.
Thursday, October 3rd
Fine breeze taking us in a S.E'ly direction. Two hens
have been declared by Mrs Wm. McCormick 'wi' egg'
- straw and separate rooms have been given them. The
Doctor quite knocked up with seasickness and unable to
attend on Caughey, who complains today of much stiff-
ness in his ankle. A large ship in sight all day which,
about luncheon time, came within long signal distance and
is suspected or guessed to be the Gladiator, American whaler.
Lat. 5.26. The surmise was not confirmed as she never answered
our signals. About four p.m. sighted a large ship on the
opposite tack, which at first caused some excitement as likely
to be homeward bound. She did not come near enough to
signalize, but went unknown on her way. We, as usual,
pronounced her to be, first the Randolph, next the Sir George
Seymour, as if those were the only two ships an the sea just
now. Shovel-board till dark. The breeze freshened with
successive squalls accompanied by rain. The ship steering
S.E. by E. - a bad course, too much easterly. Sore throats rife
in the ship, and one or two cases of rheumatism caused by
sleeping on deck. One of the hens laid an egg about six
o'clock, but before Will McCormick could come up from
the hold it had been snapped up. The ship seems to be
crammed full of thieves, 'snappers up of unconsidered trifles'.
Daily the chance of meeting homeward bound vessels to take
letters is lessening - it seems we are rather far to the eastward
of the track of the Indiamen, and Australians and New
Zealanders are not common enough to meet on the high seas.
Friday, October 4th
Wind dead South with fresh breeze. Heat almost gone
and in the evening rather chilly. The Yankee sail is hull
down astern and to leeward. A barque (Cressy, of course)
in our weather quartet the greater part of the day. The
Torquay figs have put out two young leaves each, which
grow apace. Passengers begin to feel the increase of wind
and some are very seasick. Prepared contribution to the
Cockroach, which will hardly, in my opinion, appear this
week. Lat. 4.51 at noon. The hens are supposed to have laid
again, but both eggs and nest eggs have gone. I am obliged to
deprive Bob of his nightly run, as during his prowl last night
he retrieved a large piece of salt pork - this in addition to the
mauling of a dead pig a few nights ago, has been the occasion
of his sentence. He bears confinement and heat wonderfully
well. Began The Voyages of Columbus with the intention of
having some 'steady reading' now that the heat has begun to go.
Saturday, October 5th
A fresh breeze blowing when I went on deck to
bathe-found it quite cold to stand without my clothes.
The motion has set some of the passengers going again.
The Captain very savage at the foul wind which is carry-
ing us so far to the East. He carries on, however. He tried
about noon what he could do by putting about, but after
standing on for five miles or so, found he was standing
W.N.W., which would soon run up the latitudes again.
Lat. today 4.11, shewing 45 miles of southing since yesterday -
not bad against a dead south wind. The Captain grimly
satisfied at finding the barque, which was yesterday about
seven miles to windward, is now the same distance to leeward.
We seem to catch up, and leave both astern and alee every
sail we meet. No. III of the Cockroach appeared today - it fills
well. It is very gratifying to anonymous contributors to hear
readers laughing at their papers or admiring them. When
vice versa, it is not so pleasant. The phosphorescent light very
beautiful tonight - from it our Captain lays the flattering
unction to his soul that he is near the Trades. On deck in the
course of a lecture from the Captain about Underwriters,
Insurance and Lloyds, heard that very heavy bets have been
laid about the respective rates of sailing of our four ships-
that Randolph is the favourite and we are next. Robert Wilson
complaining of weakness and inability to eat or drink anything.
Margaret seems uneasy about him. All the rest well. Caughey
nearly recovered.
Sunday, October 6th
Light but cool breeze from South. Service, but only
the Morning Prayer without Communion Service or sermon.
The Communion Service, at which the Sacrament was
administered, was performed in the cuddy. The day very
pleasant but the consciousness that the wind is taking us
too far to the eastward is annoying us. Lat. 3.26 N.
Forgot to observe yesterday upon the most gorgeous spectacle
the sea presented at night. The phosphoric light covered the
sea, upon which the ship as it moved cast up golden billows.
The scene is indescribably glorious.
Monday, October 7th
Breeze fresher but still fails - though the ship has tacked
several times nothing can be made of it, but she still will
go to the eastward only. This makes the Captain very un-
happy. We all do not much mind it, as the steady breeze
keeps us so cool. No observation today, but we are some-
where in the parallel of three degrees. Captain says we
may be a week getting to this tedious 'Line'. Hamilton
getting on remarkably well with his French by short well
understood lessons. Robert Wilson reports himself much
better. Prickly heat vanishing, succeeded by boils especially
in the children's faces & knees. About seven o'clock found
wind changing a little, and tacked, ship standing a good
westerly course; stood West all night with fresh breeze. After
tea, dancing till late, though rather too rough to make us
very particular about our steps.
Tuesday, October 8th
Westerly wind still prevailing and the variation brings
us a little to the South of West. Latitude 1 degree
41 minutes N. The breeze is delightfully cool considering
our situation on the earth's surface. After tea Neptune's
'Secretary' came aboard in the blazing tar barrel having first
hailed the ship, answered by the Chief Mate, who stood on
the poop ladder in proper form with a speaking trumpet.
A figure dressed in dark flowing garments and smelling
fearfully of tar came elbowing through the crowd of curious
passengers on the poop to the Captain, and drawing a tarry
satchel from beneath his clothes, presented the Captain with
a budget of letters - one for himself and others addressed to
several passengers - all being to the effect that 'their father'
Neptune would pay them a visit on the morrow.
(Original is appended, which runs as follows:
The Line.
Most loving son and daughter,
Some of my Tritons having hinted to me that you are about to
enter my dominions, and as it has been my law time out of mind,
for all the uninitiated to pay a toll, I shall attend upon you in person
at the proper time to claim the same. My wife and family join in hoping
that you have had a pleasant passage hitherto, and that it may continue
so to the end.
Ever your loving parent
NEPTUNUS.
Addressed to Mr Ward & Broth.)
Soon after Neptune's fiery chariot was seen drifting away.
Much curiosity and consternation among the passengers fore
and aft as to the probable events of the 'Crossing the Line'.
On deck till late playing a round of rhyme impromptu.
Some verses being better suited to the hour of midnight than
the ears of ladies, to our horror we discovered afterwards must
have been all heard by two ladies who were sitting in a dark
corner not far off.
Wednesday, October 9th
Still blowing fleshly from the W. and by S. - very
pleasant and cool. Having put a clean pair of Wednesday
trousers on, was not much pleased to find myself, an hour
after, sprawling on my side among the dirt of the cow,
dogs & cock's house. Preparations were in liveliness for
Neptune's visit. Everyone asking, 'Do you think they will
really shave us? especially the ladies. Latitude at noon 0.43.
Henry made a 'macassar' ointment for Bob's bald places
with gunpowder, burnt leather & butter: applied it thoroughly
with Willy's assistance. After the cuddy dinner the fun of
the day began. As soon as the first passengers were seen leaving
the table, a wild shout was heard, and from behind a tarpaulin
screen slung from the foremast across one side of the deck,
rushed the most motley group ever were seen. About a dozen
grotesque figures suddenly appeared surrounding a gun car-
riage, which they dragged rumbling and creaking to the
poop stairs. On the carriage was seated Neptune, clothed in
a sort of tunic, blotched and streaked into a fantastic pattern
with tar and paints, red, blue and black. He wore a hideous
mask of the same colours and was armed with a long sword
and a speaking trumpet. Through this he kept continually
shouting hoarse orders which we could not understand, but
his satellites did with a vengeance. His lady was dressed as an
ordinary mortal, with dingy gown, black silk bonnet &
oakum ringlets, with a baby in her arms. She was represented
by Jonas, the smallest of the boys. Arrived at the poop he
ascended with his bear and bear-leader, his secretary, barber
and surgeon and other attendants, to demand tribute from the
strangers there. He was received by Wortley, the representative
of the cabin passengers, who in their name presented him
with a subscription list, which in various sums the passengers
agreed to furnish at New Zealand. It amounted, with the
contributions of the intermediate, to £6 12s. They descended
then, and passing across the deck, the whole party ascended to
'Neptune's Easy Shaving Shop' as announced by a chalk
inscription to that effect, surmounted by a barber's pole. The
procession scattered the emigrants on the deck in all directions -
most of them ascended to the poop, where they fancied them-
selves, and really were for a time, secure. Some of the children
and many of the weaker women were already much frightened
at the grotesque dresses and preferred to go at once below.
Meantime the order was arranged in the shop. On the top of
the cow-house was placed a little dog-kennel on the brink of
a large sail filled with water to about the depth of five feet.
The barber and barber's assistant-the former with a razor of
notched hoop, and the latter with a tar brush and a pot of tar
grease and stinking filth, stood ready on the stage to receive
the customers, and the bear stood in the sail below to duck
them after the operation. A novice was then led forward
blindfold. On his way he was met by the 'doctor' who felt
his pulse and ordered him some salts which were immediately
thrown over him in two or three buckets of salt water-lent
him a smelling bottle-the cork being filled with pins. After
this, and being tripped over a rope, he was led up the ladder
to be shaved, amidst a shower of buckets from every quarter.
Seated on the dog-kennel, he was first lathered with the tar
and grease, which was completely scraped off with the hoop,
the operator formally stropping his razor between every few
strokes upon an enormous black bone. After he had been
well scraped, the unlucky victim was pitched, still blindfold,
backwards into the sail, where he was received by the bear
and well worried and ducked. About six or seven were
operated on, and the spectators were enjoying the sight from
the poop, ladies and all - when suddenly the word was given
by Neptune through his trumpet 'Pass the word to give the
poop a raking fire', and sailors begin to pitch bucketsful from
the main deck upwards. The scurry became dreadful after a
few drenchings, and nearly all the ladies deserted it, except
Mrs Fisher and her maid who, having been well wet with
the first discharge, had sense enough to see the fun of it.
Mrs Bishop and Miss Howard were led down nearly fainting,
but this did not diminish the fun, now becoming furious,
fast and general. Every one that could provided himself with
a bucket and poured it over every one that came near him,
sailors and passengers pell-mell, now rushing up the poop
and deluging the people there, now in playful duels, surprises
and ambuscades among themselves. Every one on deck had
their dress wetted through and through before they went
down - Captain and all. The Captain was at one time seen
scrambling up the rigging and chase given him from below.
This lasted for about two hours, and when every one was
nearly tired, both of the fun and of their own exertions, the
word was given to clear the decks. But the sailors were still
unappeased, having been disappointed of finding a man who
had been making himself obnoxious to all on board - the
steward of the intermediate cabin - and though they had
searched, as they thought, through every corner, he had not
been found. However, just as they had begun to leave off
and unrig, he appeared, having been hidden in the hospital.
They dragged him up, and being much exasperated by the
fruitless search, they paid him off savagely. They lathered him
till his mouth was full of filth - they shaved him till the skin
was scraped off his face-and the bear nearly drowned him
when he got him in the water. He emerged in a pitiable
plight and even his greatest enemies almost were sorry for the
excess of his punishment. The hatches were now removed,
and the timid emigrants, who had been nearly stifled below
and drenched with occasional bursts of water, were allowed
to emerge. Every man got a dose, of rum to keep the chill off
him, and soon after, comfort and good humour restored to
everybody, they were enabled to laugh at the absurdity of
the whole scene. At the same timed there are few on board who
do not condemn the principle of the extortion (for such it is
with those who can afford to pay for escaping shaving) and
who do not believe the whole affair to be as stupid, ridiculous
and silly a custom as has ever been handed down to us by
ancestors and recommended by the traditions and wisdom of
time out of mind. I would recommend every man novice who
crosses the line to prepare himself for it by putting on a pair
of old white trousers, a dirty shirt and no shoes or stockings
getting a bucket and joining in drenching the others as hard
as he can. It is stupid to stand looking on, and if he has paid
his shot (about five shillings will do), he need not fear being
shaved or meddled offensively with. Ladies should not leave
the cuddy on any pretence; if they are tempted to go on the
poop to 'see the fun', neither their age, appearance, dress or
entreaties will save them from being drenched. They can,
however, see it all well if they secure a front row at the cuddy
forward windows.
On the forecastle till near midnight. Singing was kept up
in right jovial style. We expected to pass the Line about
midnight.
Thursday, October 20th
Vessel going W.S.W. with a steady breeze, keeping
us deliciously cool. Lat. 0.30 S. Our august entrance
into the Southern hemisphere. A dolphin caught on the
line aft, and brought into the cuddy. Sore disappointments!
He was only the size of a moderate four pound salmon -
very like a salmon about the head and a mackerel about
the tail A fierce dispute between the Captain and Doctor,
the latter upholding the fish to be not a dolphin, the
former adducing his twenty-five years at sea to prove that
it was, and that no seaman called that fish any other name.
The Doctor says the dolphin proper is a mammal and akin
to the porpoise - whereas this fish is a fish with fins, tail and
gills. When doctors disagree, who shall decide? The Doctor
calls it now 'the dolphin-fish of mariners'. It was cooked for
dinner and was delicious. Dancing on deck to the fiddle by
a new hand, till late.
Friday, October 11th
The wind has settled at last into the regular S.E. trades.
Spent a listless day with headache and languor. Lat. 2.28 S.
The wind fresh in the morning, calmed down at night. A
jolly party in the mizzentop, singing and joking.
Saturday, October 12th
About four o'clock there spread through the ship,
like an electric shock, the news that a ship was almost
alongside and would take letters. All was immediately
fuss and dire confusion among those who had no letters
ready, but I, had only to seal up mine and direct them.
Sent letters to Mamma, Fanny, Bowler, Sewell and to Rev.
Mr Kittoe his original land orders, also to Charlwood, the
seedsman, to send my seeds for the first ship to Bowler's care.
Andy came into my cabin to seal up a letter for his wife
which he put into my bundle. None of the other people had
letters ready. When I went on deck I found the brig, a beautiful
little clipper of about 300 tons, lying about 300 yards off.
The mail bag was soon made up and despatched by the Chief
Mate with a sack of potatoes and half a dozen of bottled porter.
She was the Zeno of Richmond, bound from Benguela to
New York, five months out of New York, laden, as we
supposed, with palm oil and ivory. Shrimpton and Chas.
Bowen went on board and reported a number of parrots and
monkeys along the deck. They eagerly asked for news, but
neither of them could tell that the American President or
General Taylor or Louis Philippe were dead, although the
Yankees must have been ignorant of all. They sent us back
a bag of oranges, two or three bottles of rum & a jar of pre-
served ginger. Away she sailed with all our loves, hopes and
fears on board. Is there the least chance of those letters arriving
ever at their destination? The Captain says they may arrive in
England in about two months. All day engaged on the
Cockroach No. IV contributing two articles in the usual style.
Lat 4.38 S. Wind S.E. Trade blowing gently and pleasantly.
Porpoises and flying fish more numerous than on the other
side of the Line.
Sunday, October gth
Fresh breeze from steady S.E. Ship steering S.W. by
W. Lat. 7.18 S. having run 192 miles in the last twenty-
four hours, of which 160 were dead southing. Service as
usual morning and evening. Sore throats extending over
the ship. Mrs Chas. Mountfort very ill indeed and Hamilton
complaining. Quite cold on deck in the evening-getting
too cold to wear light things.
Monday, October 14th
A sea came through the scuttle in the night and flooded
out Hamilton who was lying on the floor. He rolled himself
up on the top of his chest, and slept soundly in spite of it.
Shut up the scuttles, but the sea running high, struck
them again and came through into the cabin - this time
over me - filtering through the roof. Hamilton's throat bad
in reality this morning. Gave him a dose of salts and made
a gargle of Port wine and Cayenne pepper putting flan-
nel round his neck. Our Mapson's plaster in great request
for the boils throughout the ship. Today the sun makes his
apparent course to the northward - behind us. Lat. 10.13 S.,
after making what the Captain calls a 'three degree day'
within two miles of three degrees having been made southing
in the last twenty-four hours. Contents of Cockroach this week:
'Outward bound and Homeward bound' by Cholmondeley,
being a paper of thoughts upon the incident of the American
vessel’s meeting. Captain's log, in which he remarks upon
the unusual conduct of some of the ladies in staying on deck
till twelve o'clock. Gardening No. 3, by Wortley, very useful
and well written. 'On Sailing', a long paper by FitzGerald.
'A Story of Spanish Life' founded on fact by Wortley. 'The
Story of the Charlotte Jane' No. 2, by self. 'Incidents of the
Week, being Extracts from the Journal of a Determined
Journalizer who Wishes for Something More to Write to
his Friends than Monotony and Truth', by self. 'On the
Wonders of the Deep' No. 2, by the Doctor on the dolphin.
Two original things by Wortley - one against scandal, and
an epigram on the Doctor in re the dolphin, the former very
pretty. On the whole a good sensible number, with a proper
admixture of light and serious.
Tuesday, October 15th
Fine fresh-blowing breeze carrying us on at an average
of eight and a half knots. Latitude at noon 13.32 S., a
clear run of 200 miles, of which 197 were dead South.
This is considered a most extraordinary run for a mer-
chant vessel, the Captain is accordingly in high spirits.
Hamilton's throat nearly well - thanks to the strong remedies
of yesterday. In the evening got out Sophia's musical box and
let it play upon deck. The tunes were much admired - both
by others and by me. Great disputes as to who shall get the
china ginger jar - proposals to shoot for it. People beginning
to leave the deck o'nights and sit in the cuddy. The weather
evidently somewhat colder. Robert Wilson and Abernethy
still complaining of weakness and loathing of their food - all
the rest well and hearty. The sick cock died yesterday.
Wednesday, October 6th
This morning the wind had fallen somewhat, but
latitude observed at noon showed that we had made all
but three degrees of southing in the last twenty-four hours.
Lat. 16.22 S. After breakfast billets cast and preparations
made for a shooting match - the winner to get the china
jar. Mountfort's rifle in use. About ten entered. The Cap-
tain, Mr Bowen and his son, FitzGerald, the Doctor,
myself, Hamilton and Henry and Wortley. Wortley shot for
Miss Bishop and the Captain for Mrs Kingdon. A bottle
was strung up to the main-yard and after shooting all round,
Mountfort and I were the only ones who hit. We shot it over
again and I having again hit and he missed I was declared
the winner of the jar. Great fun made about it. Cholmondeley
after dinner offered me a pound for it! Concluded a bargain
with him for one of his sheep dog pups if any survive to reach
New Zealand. The wind falls off towards evening and to-
night we are quite becalmed. Hamilton's birthday (his
sixteenth), being generally known on board he is made a
great deal of. The ladies making a cake to celebrate it. Mrs
FitzGerald, maker in chief, said last night 'It's Jolly's birthday
tomorrow, but I have put it off till next day to make a cake
for him'. Robert Wilson and Abernethy a great deal better,
quite able to eat as usual. The farmer getting on well with my
net, having completed the bag of the seine and a good deal of
the one wing. In fact, what with Willy McCormick attending
to cow, fowls & dogs, Margaret keeping my cabin in order,
Robert Wilson making my net and Andy doing many an
odd job for me in his line, they are all most useful to me.
Deck washed down at half past ten tonight, as the last means
of keeping below the ladies who persist in refusing to take
the hint that it is very improper to stay late on deck.
Thursday, October 17th
Calm had prevailed during the night with some heavy
rain. The ship is only going a couple of knots through the
water. Some talk of rifle sweepstakes, entrance being a bottle
of beer. After luncheon these were set on foot. Thirteen
shot three shots each. Only six hit well and they shot off
again for five prizes of six, four, three & one bottle respec-
tively. I did not hit once. Wortley and FitzGerald divided
the first two, Chas. Mountfort the third, and Mr Bowen
the fourth. Henry saved his stakes. Great talk at dinner on
the subject. After tea some pleasant dancing by moonlight.
Lat- 17.25 S., Long. 25 W.
Friday, October 18th
Derry's poor child, which had been lingering for the
last month, died last night and was buried this morning.
Pleasant sailing breeze and delicious weather. Every one
looking happy. The sea is assuming the beautiful deep
blue which it wore on entering the tropics. A few noddies
were seen flying about the ship this morning. Bob got a
good race about the ship last night, it having been ascer-
tained first that there was no beef left uncovered. He is
getting into handsome form and his hair is crisping into good
curl. Lat. today at noon 19.25. Spent the afternoon upon
the maintop with Wortley, imagining and planning for the
future. Feel very lazy and languid all day and unable to
concentrate my mind upon anything for the Cockroach. Wind
at night freshening up a little.
Saturday, October 19th
On awaking was refreshed by the cry of a ship on the
lee beam. She was about half a mile off when I went upon
deck, and by signals we ascertained her to be the Grassmere
from Liverpool to Calcutta, sixty days out - a fortnight
more than we, a somewhat agreeable surprise to those who
were desponding themselves into the belief that our voyage
was slow. We have been only forty-two days out, so many
consider ourselves lucky. We soon passed her, and in three
hours she was hull down. Latitude at noon 22.16. We shall
be out of the tropics to-morrow. Engaged on the Cockroach
all day. After dinner it was read; some articles very much
approved o£ Contents: Leading article - 'What shall we do
at Canterbury' by FitzGerald. The Captain's Log, containing
some stronger hints about ladies staying on deck o'nights.
'On Gardening' No. 5 by Wortley. 'Marine Vegetation' by
ditto. A description of the log and line by myself. 'The
Idiosyncrasy of Fellow Passengers' by Cholmondeley, very
clever and philosophical. 'A Leaf from my Horary' by self.
'Instructions to Captains of the Passenger Ships, from the
Association', by Wortley, very good. 'Lament on the Loss of
a Jar' supposed to be by Miss Bishop, by Wortley, very good.
These, with some extracts from my scrap book, made a good
useful number. This number gave us a fright, as there was
nothing ready on (today) Saturday at twelve o'clock, and it
was expected at three, on the cuddy table. We all resolved to
be more diligent and early next week. The wind has fallen
towards the evening to almost a dead calm. The Trade winds
and the Tropics have almost left us, or vice versa? Now for
a long monotonous sail, with nothing to look forward to on
this side of Tristan d'Acunha or Desolation Island.
Sunday, October 20th
Fresh breeze right aft from N.E. Service as usual. During
the forenoon a large vessel kept us company about six miles
to leeward, steering the same course. As usual we imagined
her to be one of our fleet. We lost sight of her in the afternoon.
The first albatross appeared today - something like a large
gannet - and a Cape hen - a beautiful black, graceful bird,
like a large swift. Began an argument with Wortley which
lasted all day and at last put me quite out of temper, on the
derivation of albatross, I maintaining as it was a black and
white bird - 'alba' and 'atra' must be a reasonable derivative;
he maintaining that 'alba' and some Spanish word like
'trossa' was more reasonable. Searched in books for it, but to
no purpose. This, the first day out of the tropics, is clearly
cooler, and in the evening we gladly exchange our linen
clothes for pea jackets and cloth trousers. Latitude at noon
24.14 S. Steering S.S.E. with port studding sails set. Right
on Tristan d'Acunha about seven, the wind coming dead
aft, they were setting starboard studding sails, when the wind
chopped suddenly round, blowing up fresh with rain; all
the small sails were taken in, and in an hour the ship was
going to a fresh breeze as high as she could, but on the same
course, fortunately, as before. Heavy rain came on at night
and continued till late.
Monday, October 21st
After a sound sleep, found on waking that there had been
a tremendous row overhead. The wind had suddenly blown
up in a squall and almost carried away our topgallant mast.
The topmast was found afterwards to be sprung and had to
be spliced and fished. No harm done, but the noise and bustle
of all hands being called on deck to send down topgallant
mast and up again, frightened the women in the steerage
dreadfully. Margaret came rushing into our cabin exclaiming
that the 'ship was going overboard' and they were all lost.
However, I was asleep, and did not hear of anything till the
morning. Lat. 25.43 S. Hamilton was careless enough to go
up the rigging with his French book stuck into the shallow
pocket of his pea jacket, and let it fall overboard - a most
provoking accident, for after going so far on Arnold's system
he would almost have to begin over again with another, and
nothing can replace the book for excellence, sense of teaching
and learning. Today the air is quite brisk and Octoberish -
we are glad to wear pea jackets on deck. Today Margaret
Ferguson came into my cabin, and in a flurried angry way,
asked whether she was bound to attend to Margaret Wilson's
children on board the ship for she got no time to earn any-
thing by flowering with attending to them. She had hardly
finished her speech when Margaret W. came in and con-
fronted her, and after some sulky words from M.F. and
recrimination from M.W., I told M.F. that I considered that
the return she was bound to make to me for having taken
her out was to help Margaret Wilson in every way she could.
I asked her if this was not common gratitude for what had
been done for her that, only for M. Wilson, she would have
been left unprotected and helpless in Ireland, and that she had
intreated me to take her when I was quite unwilling to burden
myself with so many. She seemed not at all touched, but
obstinate and sullen. Margaret declared that she never offers to
help her or Robert with the children, and whenever she is
asked to do it, she either refuses or does it unwillingly. If she
persists in refusing, I can easily punish her by stopping her
means of making any money on board, and by withdrawing
protection from her when she arrives - but I suspect there are
faults on both sides and that at any rate the wound, whatever
it is, will soon be healed. Hamilton tells me this evening that
it is a false alarm about the loss of the French book - that one
of the sailors took it out of his pocket before he went up.
Tuesday, October 22nd
The weather is very much colder though not much wind,
a great deal of motion caused by a heavy swell from the west,
ward. Tacked several times, but can make little of no southing
against a southerly wind. No observation for latitude this
morning. Several Cape hens about the ship in the course of
the day.
Wednesday, October 23rd
Great hustle this morning getting boxes up from the
hold. Got up my linen chest and exchanged for a stock of
dirty linen, a set of clean shirts, stockings & etceteras. Shot a
Cape hen at the stern with a single gun of Woolcot's. Wind
allowing us a S.W. course and blowing steadily and cool.
Passengers becoming disinclined to sit on deck. Everything
seems quite changed and as if we were beginning a new
voyage or a new life. But every one much brisker and more
cheerful than during the heat. Latitude at noon 26.45. A
ship during the forenoon in sight far to windward. In the
evening after prayers (which have been altered from nine to
half past seven, with advantage) danced a reel till nine o'clock.
Thursday, October 24th
The ship still in sight but rather nearer, although not
within signal distance. The Captain says he is persuaded it
must be one of our fleet. Shooting Cape hens and pigeons
all the morning, very few hits made. Got out our stock of
blankets and gave them an airing - found them not injured
either by cockroaches, damp or sea air. Lat. 28.48 S. The
Southern Cross has been observed for the last four or five
nights. In brilliance and effulgent beauty it does not come up
with my anticipations, but the mild elegance of its appear-
ance, the singular gracefulness of its shape make it indeed a
lovely object in these new heavens. The sky of the southern
hemisphere seems to my (uninitiated) eyes more thinly sown
with stars than the northern. Orion still appears in the number
of constellations.
Friday, October 23th
A light breeze is drawing aft - stun' sails set. The air
fresh and sun not too hot. What we would call a fine October
day in England. Course S. ¼ E. Lat. 31.45 S. A day more
will biing us to the latitude of the Cape. The birds still
keeping us company. A woman in the steerage asked to be
allowed to try her hand on some of the muslin patterns.
Picked up three Wellington papers containing abuse of
E. J. Wakefield - the great charge being that of gross
immorality with the natives.
Saturday, October 26th
Motion so violent in the night that I went up about
four o'clock to look at the sea, thinking it must be running
heavily. Found it blowing a slapping breeze on our quarter -
two stun' sails set and going eleven knots! She kept up this
pace all day and the reckoning at noon shews her a distance
in the last twenty-four hours of 250 miles. No observa-
tion for latitude today. As I write the wind increases to a
gale. All the passengers below of course - the steerage ones
under hatches. Employed all morning upon the Cockroach
and finished the ‘Story of the Charlotte Jane’. A great many
Cape pigeons and hens about the ship. Very hard to write
in the cabin as everything is rolling about and the deck
above is leaking down torrents upon us.
Sunday, October 27th
Wind lulled from evening till morning and left a
tremendous swell in the night, which caused the most
violent motion we have yet experienced. A beautiful day
with pleasant wind right aft. Lat. 35.18 S. - 201 miles run.
Tomorrow morning we are to sight Tristan d'Acunha and
to go ashore if possible. Innumerable flocks of birds about
the ship today; besides albatross, Cape pigeon and hens
and petrels, there was the silver petrel or whalebird in
absolutely countless flocks. From the mizzen head I could see
sea covered with them afloat and air filled with them on the
wing, thickening the atmosphere like gnats on a summer
evening. They are like a small part or tern, somewhat more
elegant in flight-long, slender and graceful wings, and a
silver-grey colour of a beautiful hue. Whether they are truly
called whalebirds, I do not know, but it would seem they
have something to do with whales, for one was seen spouting
about a quarter of a mile off before the birds appeared in
considerable numbers. Great speculations about Commodore
Glasse and his colony on Tristan d'Acunha.
Monday, October 28th
This morning found on awaking that all our hopes
of Commodore Glasse's fresh beef, goats, vegetables, &c.,
were doomed to disappointment. We had made so good
a course during the night that we had passed Tristan
d'Acunha at five o'clock, when it was visible (thirty-five
miles off) for a short time. The breeze is sending us on
beautifully - quite a sea running and the sun shining brightly,
so that it is positively delicious (as we did all day) to sit at
the taffrail and watch the sea birds careering over the stern.
An immense number appeared - principally albatrosses and
Cape pigeons, and in our anxiety to provide the Doctor with
a specimen, we shot at many, with a view to getting them to
fall on deck. Some used lines of worsted to entangle them as
they flew and one was nearly caught in this way. Latitude
today 36.50 S. Longitude 11.32 W. - running S. Easterly.
I shall commence herewith to note the longitudes chiefly, as
they will shew best our progress. The Captain is in good
spirits about our progress and predicts forty days more as our
term of imprisonment. After tea, a quiet rubber of whist with
the Captain, Mr and Mrs Mountfort.
Tuesday, October 29th
No sleep last night on account of the tremendous rolling
of the vessel. From a brief doze I was awakened by a shower
composed of the following materials - a can of sperm-oil, a
can of spirits of wine, a bottle of ink, a bottle of eau-de,
cologne, my watch & a shoe, all of which had been packed,
as I thought, securely before I went to bed. Nothing, how,
ever, was open but the bottle of eauade-cologne, and
therefore no harm was done. Two or three heavier - rolls
than ordinary seemed to bring every smashable article on the
ship down at once. I could hear boxes, casks & heavy things
giving way in every direction and people striking lights and
looking timidly after their lives and properties. The gale
continued to increase till and after breakfast-time. After
breakfast it did some damage to braces and halyards and the
top-sails were double reefed, mainsail furled, jib taken in and
stay-sail set - in fact all made snug. Wind and rain came in
heavy squalls and otherwise, and as I write the motion is
almost too great to make more than an attempt successful.
However, we are going on our course as straight as we can
go - and almost as quick - 210 miles since yesterday to the
S.E. Lat. 38.20 S., Long. 6.48 W. This, the first day of
heavy gales, produces something strange and uncomfortable
every hour. Dinner was an awful scramble, plates and dishes
falling about, of course, but that was the least. You were as
likely to find your neighbour in your plate as your plate in
your neighbour's lap, or your lap in your neighbour's, as any
other arrangement. Thus, part of my dinner was eaten on the
floor and part on the table - you must eat what you can get
and for small dishes must exercise the art of harpooning and
shooting flying, as potatoes, salt and bread, &c., come
swimming past. Very cold and uncomfortable on deck, but
the sight of the waves grand.
Wednesday, October 30th
The wind nor motion abated not a whit during the
night, and therefore very little sleep. A good deal of rain
this morning and bitterly cold. Breakfast and dinner the
same scramble as yesterday. The soup is made thick with
potatoes and doughnuts and is very good. Single simple
dishes are put down by themselves - spare plates, tumblers
and everything else on a swing tray; but even so, every
time the ship rolls there is a roll down the table. The
plates are stopped short by the wooden divisions, but knives
and spoons clear them and go on their course. The wind is
not so high (having our topgallant sail set), but it is the heavy
swell after the gale of yesterday which does this. Margaret
Ferguson, having finished a beautiful embroidered muslin
baby's cap, I promised, in the hearing of all the young married
couples, to give it as a prize to the first Charlotte Jane child.
The ladies complain much of weariness caused by being
obliged to bend to every motion of the vessel in order to keep
their balance. Lat. 38.41 S. Long. 2.10 W. Distance run,
213 miles in a beautiful course.
Thursday, October 31st Halloweve
The wind moderated in the night, or rather the swell
abated and we enjoyed a quiet sleep. Prayers for the first time
in the cuddy on account of the cold. Passengers of all grades
were admitted there. Practising going on at albatrosses all
morning. Latitude at noon 39.11 S., Longitude 0.33 E.
East of Greenwich at last! In the evening entertained a select
party of twelve in our little den – Vingt-un, musical box as
an interlude during supper of bread & jam & sherry &
seltzer-water, winding up with a few songs. Present, James
and Mrs Fisher and Stephen Fisher, Miss Hooper, Mr and
Mrs C. Mountfort, two Bishops and two Miss Bishops,
Wortley, Cholmondeley and our (three) selves. Fifteen in all.
Very merry, though mirth somewhat damped by the illness
of Mr Bowen next door. He has a severe attack of asthma.
Friday, November 1st
A real November day, though it has no right to be so;
foggy, wet and cold. The wind got up during the night
and we have a repetition of the rolling and discomfort of
the beginning of the week. Took out my gun and found
it spotted with rust. Employed forenoon cleaning it. Heard
at dinner that the Captain had been alarmed by the sight
of a waterspout within a hundred yards of the ship.
Though he took in as much sail as he could in a hurry, it
would (as he said) have ripped the masts out of the ship if it
had not fortunately passed out of our tracks. Captain took
FitzGerald's two to one in bottles of champagne that we would
not cast anchor in Lyttelton harbour within ninety-eight days
from Plymouth. Wortley bet me three to one in the same coin
that we would not be there in ninety-five days, which I took,
as it suits my belief, and I would almost make an even bet
about it. Thinking a good deal of home today, which is
unusual with me, I suppose because we have so much to
look forward to that we have no time to look back. No
observation today. Wind W.N.W. and weather colder and
colder. Toward night fine with squalls.
Saturday, November 2nd
Very boisterous. Lat. 39.46 S., Long. 9-45 E., 237
miles by log run in the last day. Two days more are to
bring us to the Cape. Mrs Horrell got a bad fall on deck,
which made her insensible and cut her face. A whale
passed the ship within a few yards. Engaged on Cockroach
No. VII all morning. It contained 'A Paper on Cookery' by
FitzGerald, 'On Gardening', No. 6, by Wortley, on 'Alba-
trosses and Birds' by the Doctor, 'Sheep-farming' by Chol-
mondeley, 'A Defence of the Association on Points Impugned
of and Animadverted on in a Former Number', by Fitz.,
divers pieces of poetry serious and comic - one particularly
good by FitzGerald. Read Sam Slick all evening. Passengers
playing chess, cards, German tactics and other puzzles and
reading and working in the cuddy. Many live the evenings
in their cabins, and many are now confined to them against
their will by colds and other consequences of our sudden
burst from hot into cold weather.
Sunday, November 3rd
Our Lat. 40.10 S., Long. 14.26 E. 225 miles run by
the slate. Course S.E. Service, the morning Liturgy only
performed in the cuddy and Sacrament, which was to have
been administered, was postponed. The squalls not so frequent
today, but high, and the sea is tempestuous and produced
most disagreeable motion. Last night a sausage of concen-
trated soup, several pounds weight, fell on my nose as I lay
in bed, stunning and frightening me not a little.
Monday, November 4th
We are today abreast of the Cape in Latitude 40.57 S.,
Longitude 19.8 E. Distancg run by log 197 miles. Our
proximity to the land sensibly influences the temperature of
the air, as today it is quite mild and pleasant on deck.
Breeze and sea moderate. The 'young men' have had a 'kick
up' with the Doctor, for which he stopped their rations; but
afterwards, finding himself in the wrong, countermanded his
decree. The patience of the bird-catchers at the stern was
today rewarded by the capture of a Cape pigeon and a stormy
petrel. A line hung out astern with a cork floating at the end,
was wielded by the angler to catch the birds as they flew across.
Tuesday, November 5th
A great deal of motion last night, though very calm
and therefore the more intolerable. Towards morning the
rolling abated, but it had been as violent as on any occa-
sion since our gale. The day is much warmer, reminding
us all of our good friends the tropics. Towards the afternoon
and evening the wind is fresh and fair, going eight and a
half knots. Latitude at noon 41.24 S., Longitude 22.22 E.
Distance run 193 miles. The Captain has doubled his bet
with FitzGerald, backing the event of our getting in within
ninety-eight days from Plymouth. This morning early the
sailors on the forecastle harpooned a porpoise which they
cut up for food and oil. It weighed about a hundredweight
and measured five feet in length. The Doctor very eloquent
upon its merit. We caught with the line today another
Cape pigeon, but let it go again. The Doctor amusing
himself stuffing the other and the stormy petrel. FitzGerald
took a good sketch of them. The emigrants made a Guy
today and, as usual, made him an instrument of extortion-
putting a tin in his hand to collect money on the poop. Made
two discoveries the last few days: No. 1: That Harvey, one
of the sailors, sailed in the Hecate with Coz. Hamilton, of
whom he talks as if of some fiend of darkness. No. 2: That
our old cook was cook to the Essex on her voyage with the
87th. I wish I had known these things before to write them
home.
Wednesday, November 6th
A most lovely morning and day, such as in an early
summer in England. Almost too hot to sit long in the
sun. Amused myself by idling over the stern 'fishing for
birds. A Cape pigeon was caught, but not by me. The
albatrosses keep prudently out of the way. The birds at
present in sight are the wandering white and the dusky
albatrosses, the stormy and the silver petrel or whale bird,
the Cape hen or giant petrel, also the ice bird - a large
kind of silver petrel almost the size of a Cape hen, with white
on the belly. Some consternation excited on deck by the fall
of a very heavy block from the mainyard to the deck. It fell
on the shoulder of the carpenter within an inch of his skull
and within a couple of feet of Hamilton as he was working
at the same bench. Andy, who has been suffering; from some
affection of the heart, is now much better. Every one in good
spirits, and the vessel with gentle motion, keeps us so by
carrying us on quietly at eight or nine knots. Lat. at noon,
41.24. Long. 26, 155 miles run.
Thursday, November 7th
A fine morning, rather colder. An immense number
of Cape pigeons, albatrosses and other birds flying about
the stern. It was sometimes very calm, giving us an oppor-
tunity to catch them. Accordingly a fine albatross was
caught, measuring nine feet from tip to tip. The way to
catch an albatross is to procure an ordinary cod hook,
rather strong and large, and bind it on, however roughly,
to a very stout line (we used the log line). Put a piece of pork
rind upon the hook, and about six inches above, tie on a
chip of wood about half a foot in length to keep it afloat.
When the ship is going slowly through the water, let out the
line to a short distance, the Cape pigeons will hover round
the attractive chip and perhaps settle in the water beside it.
As sure as the Cape pigeons settle the albatrosses will settle
too. As soon as you see him hovering and throwing down
his legs to alight, which he does in a most ungainly way,
slacken away your line so as to float beside him at rest. Give
him time and plenty of line and he will pouch it. Then haul
him in with a steady pull - it will require three or four hands
to pull him up. N.B.-You will never catch one while the
bait is in motion, towing after the ship. When Cape pigeons
are plentiful astern, a stout fishing rod with a very light line
towing a cork (to steady it) will catch by the wings as many
as you choose. Latitude today at noon, 42.15 S. Longitude
29.57 E Distance run by log, 158 miles. At breakfast today
gave Wortley two to one that we should be in within 105
days. Forgot to mention among the wonders of the deep today,
a school of black whales into which we got about eleven o'clock.
They were spouting and rolling sometimes within two or
three hundred yards of the ship. Debate at dinner about the
word 'prejudice', FitzGerald arguing against me that it of
necessity implied opinions gathered from our forefathers. Had
no Johnson to refer to. Captain bet a shilling all round with
each that they would not spell correctly 'The cobbler's pony
went to the saddler's stall to buy a saddle and ate a potato'.
Wortley and FitzGerald both lost, though the sentence could
hardly be simpler.
Friday, November 8th
A fine day, freshened by temperature and breeze. Lat.
42.28, Long. 32.32 E. Distance run 122½ miles. Hamilton
busy making a machine to twist twine. Discovered last
night that Mr Barker knows the Scuvens very well. Told
me that they were now living at Rouen, and that Johnny S.
is house surgeon at University Hospital, trying for an East
India Company's surgency, but not likely to get it. The
daughters still unmarried!
Saturday, November 9th
Strong gale increasing all day and very cold. In the
afternoon furled mainsail and double-reefed topsails. Lat.
42.55 S., Long. 36.28 E. Engaged all morning upon
Cockroach No. VIII, which came out rather thin in cones-
quence of the weather.
Sunday, November 10th
After a stormy night, wind in the morning abated and
fore and main studding-sails set. The motion still very violent
as the wind is aft, and passengers very crusty in consequence.
The Captain laid up with rheumatism and six hands on the
sick list, chiefly with 'Cape fever'. At noon Latitude 43•39 S.,
Longitude (by account) 49.55 E., 204 miles run to the S.E.
Service (morning only) without Communion service or
sermon. Promised the Captain that the next time the
Charlotte Jane comes into New Zealand I would engage to
supply him with potatoes for his voyage, whenever he was
going.
Monday, November 11th
A stormy night with much disagreeable motion. So
anxious about things getting adrift that it is hard to compose
myself to sleep. Rumours this morning of an accident having
occurred by the going out of the binnacle lights. In the
darkness the man at the wheel could see nothing and let
the ship come to. Everything was taken aback, but fortu-
nately nothing of consequence was carried away. Not as cold
as yesterday. The sun sometimes shining pleasantly enough.
At noon Latitude 44.17 S., Longitude 45.24 E. Distance
run by log 214 miles S.E. Volunteered for the Chief Mate's
night watches for a week - during the sickness of some of
the hands.
Tuesday, November 12th
Kept the middle watch with Wortley and Chas. Bowen
from twelve to four, and then summoned Henry and
Hamilton, who with Shrimpton and Croasdaile Bowen,
relieved us. The four hours, though very cold, passed
away tolerably quick and comfortable; had good wrappers
on and the night was fine. It is worth keeping a watch
to feel how much you enjoy a really good sleep after it.
Latitude today 44.39 S., Longitude 49.56 E., 187 miles run.
We are abreast (a little to the northward) of a small group of
islands called Crozier's Islands. The Captain still laid up in
his cabin with a bad leg and reported to be very sulky. He
thinks we have kept far enough to the southward. Formed
today the design of writing a 'Manual for Passengers', to
embody my own experience and that of others, especially
ladies, on board.
Wednesday, November 13th
Last night kept watch from eight to twelve p.m. and
four to eight a.m. Very cold with occasional snow showers.
The morning watch not unpleasant, as there was plenty
to do in washing decks and pumping, besides a little trim-
ming of the sails. Rather sleepy, however, all day in
consequence. Almost calm. This afternoon a most pro-
voking accident occurred. A beautiful colonist's knife, given
to me by Arabella Prescott, slipped from the hen coop
on which I had carelessly laid it, and a lurch of the vessel
carried it overboard. Quite sulky all the evening in con-
sequence, and almost determined not to keep watch tonight;
but I am shamed into it by the others. Lat 44.52 S., Long.
53.11 E. About ninety miles north of Possession Island, one
of Crozier's group. A most ridiculous incident occurred
early this morning. I had turned in at twelve o'clock and
with my brain full of sails and ropes slept uneasily. About
three I got up in an amazing fuss, sat up in my bed to 'haul
in the drawer-sheets' in a hurry. What were the drawer-sheets
but one of the unfortunate little fig trees, which sat in its pot
beside my bed. I hauled in with a vengeance and was only
well awake to find I had pulled it out of the pot and covered
the place with earth.
Thursday, November 14th
Middle watch last night and very cold. Lat. 45.26 S.,
Long. 56.14. Calculating this place to be 5,000 miles from
Port Lyttelton, an average rate of 150 miles will take us in
Thirty-two days – ninety-nine days from Plymouth. A stove
has been lighted in the cuddy but it is a great nuisance with
its smoke and close smell The cold is really intense and
the misery caused by there being no refuge from it is widely
spread through cuddy, intermediate and steerage.
Friday, November 15th
Kept the evening and morning watch last night and
am beginning to get sick of it, besides that, my eyes do not
stand well the exposure. The morning was very stormy and
our watch came in for furling mainsail and reefing fore and
mizzen topsails. No observation for latitude or longitude but
212 miles are shewn as run by the log - running straight
upon Kerguelen's Land - and that to avoid it we must haul
to the westward. Course changed from S.E. to S.E. ½ S.
Saturday, November 16th
After a very wet night rose to receive the jeers of fellow
passengers at having 'skulked' the watch. Cold and fine and
light breeze. Lat. 46.27, Long. 64.57 E. 167 miles run - an
½ E. course has taken us out of the way of Desolation Island.
Everyone looking restless with the cold. No Cockroach today -
we having agreed that it was better to discontinue it than
serve it up feebly.
Sunday November 17th
Thick and blowing weather with an uncomfortable
cross sea. No good observation for latitude, though in this
ticklish place everything depends upon our latitude. By
approximation, we place ourselves on the chart in Latitude
47.0, Longitude 69.9 - 177 miles run in S E. ½ S. and
S.E. by E. course. Every day's weather proves to the Cap-
tain, and is evidence to me, that this very southward course,
though it shortens the degrees of longitude, brings us
most uncertain weather, besides being bitterly cold. Service
today in full, with a long sermon, though there has been
perhaps more motion and discomfort than any Sunday since
we left Plymouth. Bowen is the only one of the 'afterguard'
who has kept to his resolution of keeping a week's night
watches. Last night he was aloft, reefing fore and mainsails.
The Captain gives us twenty days to be abreast of Bass's
Straits, but as we are considerably more than half way there
from the Cape and are only thirteen days from thence, there
is no reason why we should be so long.
Monday, November 18th
Calm and cold. By our observations we are passed
Desolation Island in Latitude 41.18, Longitude 72.43 E.
150 miles run. Ten days will bring us probably abreast of
Australia and into warmer weather. A curious accident
occurred to me this afternoon. One does not imagine them,
selves liable on board ship to be tossed by a cow, but
nevertheless such was the nature of my accident. I had gone
into the cow's house and remained coaxing and petting her
on the most affectionate terms - she licking me and pre-
tending to be the best friend possible. But when I climbed
upon the partition to get in front of her, while kneeling
thereupon with my rear exposed to her face, she, as if sensible
of the extreme indignity, ripped up my right leg with every-
thing upon it, including the skin, for about a foot in length.
I came down in rags and extreme terror for I thought that
my thigh must have been cruelly laid open. But when I got
down to my cabin, behold it was only a scratch, and a torn
trouser and shirt was the only injury done. Great laughing
at me for the accident by the cuddy folk to whom even this
absurd accident is a godsend.
Tuesday, November 19th
This battledore and shuttlecock weather still continues,
during the night and this morning it has been blowing a
gale, harder than we have ever yet experienced, and a foul
wind too, from the N.E. and E.S.E. We had to lie to from
two a.m. till ten this morning and drifted away back. How-
ever our observations place us a degree and a half to the East
of yesterday. Lat. 47.52, Long. 74.29 E. The cold today
is terrible.
Wednesday, November 20th
Blowing moderately all day with thick Scotch mist.
Passengers chiefly in their own cabins. Engaged all morning
in trying to fill up crevices through which the water poured
last night on my head, so that i had to put up an umbrella
towards morning. The cabin is in a most leaky condition -
everything is getting spoiled by wet and no means of drying
them. Henry in bed all day with shivering symptoms. He
took a Dover's powder and wrapped himself up warm.
No observation today, but we are supposed to have made
four degrees of easting and to be about in Longitude 79 or
thereabouts. Bridger up on deck today for the first time after
his face ache, in hearty spirits.
Thursday, November 21st
Very cold and wind steady. A fall of snow occurred at
different times of the day, but for the most part fine. Had a
talk with Fawcett, the shepherd, about the management of
sheep. Mrs Derry was safely delivered this morning, about
four o'clock, of a son and heir, and is doing well. Great
calculations at noon about our probable arrival - calculated
that at the rate of 164 miles a day, the Captain would win
his bet and bring us in in twenty-four days from this
latitude. Long. 83.39. Distance 203 miles. Henry today
better, but stayed in bed all day eating slops. The wet is not
so bad today in our cabin but that of yesterday has left every,
thing damp and sticky. Half of my bed is unsleepably damp,
and the ship rolling sends me uncomfortably squash into it
every other minute.
Friday, November 22nd
The same weather squalls of snow and rain, yet not so
very cold. Willy McCormic.k says 'It's no half cold enough'.
I hear his intentions are, as soon as he has gathered £300 or
so, to return home by New York. We have made today a
slashing run of 230 miles - five degrees and a half. Lat. 48.26 S.,
Long. 89.12. We got a charcoal stove into the cabin today,
which has given it a more wholesome feel. Henry got up at
the usual hour and seems quite well.
Saturday, November 23rd
Cold as usual, no perceptible change in either wind or
weather. The Cape pigeons have almost left us - very few to
be seen after the ship now. In their stead and in the same
numbers, with equal boldness and voracity, appear the bird
we have hitherto called the 'ice bird' - grey, with white bellies,
somewhat larger than the Cape pigeon. We decided today
on the plan for our house, and Andy and Hamilton have
set to to make a model of it. Lat. 48.34, Long. 93.12 E.
195 miles S.E. by E. which the variation reduces to E.
nearly. In the evening the wind increases to a gale. Every-
thing made snug in consequence of the threatenings of the
barometers, which are at hurricane levels. Mrs Derry made
application today to have her child named after the Captain -
Alexander - to which he graciously gave consent! A rubber
of whist in the evening.
Sunday, November 24th
Our fears of an unquiet night were not realized - we had
a tolerably easy voyage during it. Today service in the cuddy
and a sermon, in which Mr Kingdon took occasion to allude
to the indifferent attendance at daily morning and evening
prayers. This is caused, in my opinion, by the length of the
church service which indisposes people to submit to con-
strained attitudes for the time it lasts during the rolling and
pitching. Family prayers would have always been preferred
and would have been better, if not well attended. Latitude
at noon 48.39 S., Longitude 99.10 E. Distance run 208
miles S.E. by E. Calculations are being made closer and
closer every day. Some sanguine arithmeticians give us only
fifteen days more, and if our next fortnight's run presents the
average of this week, we shall at any rate, be near Stewart's
Island.
Monday, November 25th
Fresh breeze with some good pitching, causing to some
of the ladies a return of seasickness. Got up from the hold
(where they had fallen through an airhole) a book and a
prayer book of Hamilton's. Mountfort consults me on family
jars. I prescribe a strong dose by way of covenant. Andy
and Hamilton all day at work on the model house, which
has progressed to the wall plate of the front. Lat. 48.52,
Long. 104.22. 208 miles run. Captain’s average per day to
bring us in in ninety-eight days reduced to 151 miles; mine
for ninety-five reduced to 178. Margaret and Willy both in
spirits caused by a prospect of 'the wee house'.
Tuesday, November 26th
Almost calm this morning, continuing with a light
wind occasionally during the day. Mountfort brought down
a dusky albatross with his gun, and he was secured on deck
for the Doctor's purposes. House-building going on gaily;
deputations from the steerage arrive momently to gaze. I met
Andy today escorting a party to see the model in course of
building. Forgot to notice before this the birth of a new
journal called the Sea Pie - resting for support upon a variety
of articles, semi-burlesque in style, highly seasoned with not
the most amiable personality. It is supposed to emanate almost
solely from the brain of the elder Mountfort, though it has
the impudence to profess to be the production of 'the Ladies'
at which presumption many of the real ladies are most indig-
nant. Latitude today 49.6 S., Longitude 108.29. 160 miles
run. Lately round the stove in the middle cabin there have
been religious discussions, in which Mr Kingdon and others,
but especially Mr K. are, at any rate, neither of low church
nor no church principles.
Wednesday, November 27th
Found this morning that the wind had chopped round
to the N.E. and E., dead against us. All day we drove to
the South with but half a point of easting. Towards evening
it came on to blow a whole gale, with snow and intensely,
unendurable cold - regular Cape Horn weather. Lat. 49.38 S.,
Long. 110.39 E. 95 miles run in our true course. Today
C. Mountfort put the finishing stroke to his business and
is safe.
Thursday, November 28th
The easterly gale blowing as hard and as cold as ever-
lying to the whole day and drifting to the N.W. - (pleasant,
very!). No observation but our course has been S.W. - what
there has been of it.
Friday, November 29th
Wind fell light this morning and, gradually coming
round to the N.W. fell calm - so calm, that the birds-
albatrosses, &c. - sat under our stern and were caught easily.
Five dusky albatrosses (Diomedea piliginosa) were caught with
hooks. A goodly assembly of passengers on the poop while
the sun was out. Took ten to one from the Captain that we
would not be in in ninety-five days after all. Our distance &c.,
was hushed up, but it appears we have made three degrees
in the last three days. The rafters are placed on our model
house.
Saturday, November 30th
A cold and cheerless day, rendered more uncomfortable
by our feeling that we are not upon our course. The ship
barely keeps S.S.E., which, besides taking us out of our
straight course, is taking us to more cold - more we can
hardly bear now. It is utter misery - what between the cold
of the windy deck, the smoke of the stove in the cuddy, and
the darkness of our little cabin, we have positively no place
to go to. Everyone in their misery and discomfort rendered
ill-tempered, is making everyone else ten times more un-
comfortable. Lat. 50.58 S., Long. 114 E., very nearly abreast
of Cape Leuwin, the first of the great Australian land. The
second number of the upstart Sea Pie appeared today -
miserably bumptious, presuming on its good-natured recap-
tion last week, and miserably personal, dealing with disgusting
familiarity with jokes on the steward, cook & officers of
the ship. Forgot yesterday to record the appearance of two
puffins or mackerel-cocks, diving and croaking, as if in
Strangford Lough. Today other strange birds were seen,
which puzzles the Captain, as he says such are never seen at
any great distance from land.
Sunday, December 1st
At first the usual fog and cold, with but little wind from
E.S.E. After service the fog cleared away, the sun came out
over the calm sea and we had a breath of Spring weather.
All appeared invigorated by the change of temperature,
sudden and unlooked for as it was. Our spirits were further
raised by the wind towards evening coming up in gentle
puffs - with a promise of more - from N.W., N. and N.E.
Yet there is but little as I write at eleven o'clock. Everyone
is very low and sulky during this prolonged delay, when our
expectations had been strung to the top of our bent. During
service a penguin was seen swimming near the ship, which
excited the Doctor prodigiously and made us imagine our,
selves either near land or ice. Lat. 51.50, Long. 115.20.
Monday, December 2nd
Wind from N.E. barely enabling us to hold our East
course, nevertheless we did so all day at from five to seven
knots. The house being finished, Andy begins the back
premises. Took three to one from Wortley that we should
not be in in 100 days. Mrs Bowen very ill all day. Lat.
51.38 S., Long. 117.27. One of the three remaining partridges
died today, leaving two only, one of which is in a precarious
state; two of the pheasants are moved to the long boat for
change of air.
Tuesday, December 3rd
Fine breeze in the morning keeping us barely on our
course. At dinner the joyful sound of 'square the yards'
was heard - the wind having come abeam, at which point (N.)
it continued increasing till evening. We are, therefore, steering
our course (E. ½ S.) easily at nine and a half knots. Everyone
rejoicing and lively. Heard today rumours from the steerage
of a combination among the emigrants for high wages. A
married woman (name not mentioned) has resolved not to
hire for less (keep included) than £40 a year! They seem to
be a 'bad lot' (with few exceptions) on board this ship-
chiefly the off-scourings of the small mechanics of large
towns - up to all sorts of meanness and petty pride - knowing
too well the arts of separating the interests of employer and
employed. They meanly fear a combination of the land,
owners to reduce wages, instead of trusting to the right feeling
of gentlemen and the favour of fortune. Andy speaks very
ill of them all-indeed, by the contrast presented, I have
reason to be proud of my lot. No observations today, but we
place ourselves somewhere in Longitude 122, Latitude 51.30,
after a run of 190 miles – thirty-eight miles to a degree. Stuffed
a hollow tooth of FitzGerald's with Mr Barnett's stuffing
secundum artem.
Wednesday, December 4th
Fresh breeze from N.E., lying a good course. At noon
got good observations, shewing us to be more to the south-
ward and eastward than we guessed. Lat. 52.28, Long.
128.27, having done six degrees and a half. Steered afterwards
E. and N. ½ N. A rumpus arose today among the emigrants
who refused to clean, for divers reasons, which they alleged
in divers long stories - the real reason being a jealousy of
Allen, one of the constables. Things had nearly got very
bad - the Captain had to threaten them with irons and putting
out the galley fire, but afterwards, when the state of the case
was better understood by the Captain, a misdemeanour was
brought home to Allen and he was distnissed from the par-
ticular office in which he had given offence. The emigrants
then returned to their duty. In the evening I had Robert and
Willy and Co. in my cabin and made a proposal to give
each couple £30 a year with their food and lodging, to
Margaret food and lodging also for any girl to help her with
the children. They seemed satisfied and willing to agree,
but I let them go without giving me an answer that they
might sleep over it. Margaret, I thought, looked a little
disappointed - having probably been most awake to the
nonsense lately talked about wages in the steerage.
Thursday, December 5th
The smoke in the cuddy began a headache, which ended
in a bilious sickness, from which I retired to bed after dinner
and slept till evening when I was very sick. Slept badly,
wakefulness aggravated to the intelligence (by steward) that
the people are very much down in the mouth about my
proposal. Am therefore the more glad that I did not close
at once with them Took counsel from Andy, in which he
proved the inadequacy of £30 a year they having left nearly
that behind them. He thought they would be content with
£35 for McCormicks and £40 for Wilsons. He proved
that Margaret was worth double the wages of Jane McCormick.
Lat. 52.36 S., Long. 133.26 E.
Friday, December 6th
Stayed in bed (having dosed myself) till after breakfast,
and when I got up, Hamilton turned in with the same
symptoms - headache and immediate sickness. Others in the
ship having similar complaints. A beautiful day with the
wind nearly aft! Steering N.E. by E. ½ E. Latitude at noon
51.30 S., Longitude 138.50, distance run 200 miles, being
five degrees of longitude and one of northing. Everyone in
great spirits, as a week of this wind will almost take us to
our land. The model house nearly finished. No more news
about the 'disappointed peoples'.
Saturday, December 7th
Last night was most tempestuous - almost the hardest
gale we have yet experienced. All hands up all night reefing
topsails, &c. However we went rapidly on all day and made
220 miles. Lat. 50.45, Long. 144.26. Towards evening it
blew very hard with rain from N.W., but at the worst it
changed to clear sky and wind from W. The temperature
much milder. Cape pigeons have left us entirely, and alba-
trosses and mollymawks are our only bird companions.
Today we are ninety-one days out - three calendar months
exactly, having left September 7th.
Sunday, December 8th
A fine morning. Wind from W.N.W. nearly right aft;
the temperature on deck beginning to be pleasant.
Full service in the cuddy. At noon Latitude 49.45 S., Longi-
tude 149.49 E., 222 miles run. In the evening the wind
came right aft with squalls. Mrs Hughes, one of the emi-
grants, appeared on deck covered with boils - many believe
that she has the scurvy. Two or three cases of sickness forward.
One man (Hill) in a decline. Fawcett with a bloody flux.
Monday, December 9th
A beautiful morning with fair wind, but more forward
than yesterday (N.N.W.). Having gone ten knots nearly the
whole night, we expected a good run. The chart accordingly
gave us 230 miles! to the E.N.E. ½ N. Lat. 48.54 S., Long.
155.27 E. The deck crowded with happy faces - everyone
looking cheerful at the near prospect of even seeing land.
The Captain confidently expects to do so on or about
Wednesday at noon, and that we may do it yet in ninety-
eight days, which will expire by Sunday at noon. The house
rapidly approaches completion and perfection. Yesterday I
promised Willy McCormick a sovereign if the 'coo' was
adjudged to be in the best condition of all the five coming out.
Tuesday, December 10th
Arabella's birthday. A lovely day with the wind right
aft, going from eight to ten knots. Lat. 48.14 S., Long.
160.20 E. We ran 185 miles only in consequence of delay
caused by both topsails (main and fore) having been carried
away slightly yesterday, necessitating a shift of fore topsail and
some repairing on the main. The Captain is beginning to be
nervous about approaching the 'Snares', some rocks lying to
the southward of the 'Traps'. A very little error in the numerous
calculations required might throw us upon them - so that he
intends to go cautiously. However, to-morrow afternoon we
confidently hope to see Stewart's Island. Wind today W. and
W.S.W., which would take us up nicely. Yesterday and
today the Captain suspected soundings from the colour of
the water, but Bridger thinks differently. On the fore topmast
crosstrees with Wortley looking out for land or ships, but saw
none.
Wednesday, December 11th
Again a lovely morning, tho' slightly sharpened by the
wind, a good earnest of New Zealand weather. Wind about
N.W. All eyes on the lookout for land. Mr Bridger reports
having seen a sparrowhawk early this morning. The Doctor,
on coming on deck, declared he smelt the shore and sea-
weed. Wortley added 'and bathing boxes'. The cow was
heard to low loudly during the night, in fact every sign
rife, but the sight still withheld. At noon the Captain's
confab' with the Mate was prolonged, and the chart, when
it appeared, was not marked with the course - an un-
precedented circumstance. There seems to be a difference of
thirty miles or more between the position by Chronometer and
by the Lunar Distance taken yesterday. If Chronometer be
correct, we are only about sixty miles off Stewart's Island and
close to the Snares if they exist. On the fore topmast cross-
trees with Wortley, straining our eyes to no purpose. Bet the
Captain a bottle of wine we should see land before midnight.
At noon Latitude 47.27, Longitude 165.30. Distance run
about 206 miles. Yesterday I exhibited the model house in the
cuddy, where it was the 'cynosure of all eyes'. After dinner to
the fore crosstrees again, to be again mocked by imagination
and again disappointed. Bowen on the maintop. The poop
full. About half past four the Captain got up his glass and
looked out anxiously into what he called 'the loom of the land'.
The expression was soon in everyone's mouth, and 'looms
of land' were soon seen in all directions. At length, at five
o'clock, I was looking out more forward than anyone else,
and as the vessel canted a little to one side, I called out to the
Captain that there was land, right beyond the bowsprit. He
put up his glass and pronounced it to be so at once. Every
one was soon in the mizzen rigging trying to get a peep, and
I ran to the forecastle to assure myself and to announce it to
those there who might have seen it long before. Excitement
was now in everyone's face and gesture. The forecastle was
soon crowded by poop passengers, vying and jostling with
the emigrants for a peep. Wortley Bowen & I got up into
the crosstrees and waved and shouted with joy as we looked
at it from thence gradually becoming clearer and better defined.
The appearance was that of a clump of high hills, divided at
half their extent by a deep gap. Soon land was seen in,
distinctly to the northward of this, and the whole became
before evening moulded into one uniform appearance, match-
ing well my anticipations of Stewart's Island. One peak of
singular conical form, a true sugar loaf cone, rises, with
others less sharp and high, plumb from the lower ground.
By eight o'clock, at which it became dusk, or half past nine,
when it became dark (moonlight excepted) we were nearly
abreast of the land. The Captain, however, as the wind was
light and fair, determined to make a run all night between
the 'Trap' rocks and Stewart's Island. The moon was bright
and the land pretty distinct, so we ran on quietly. By twelve
it was quite calm with a ground swell - two lookouts on the
forecastle and a reef in all the topsails. So, being all snug and
likely to be abreast of the land all night, I turned in and was
called at daylight. We have thus accomplished the voyage
from land to land in ninety-four days. On Tuesday at twelve
o'clock it would be ninety-four days since we left Plymouth,
but as we have lost about twelve hours in the course of our
voyage, we have a right to add that on, so that the ninety-four
days would not be complete till Wednesday at noon. Then,
as we saw the last of England six hours (at least) after leaving
it, we may calculate the ninety-four days 'from land to land'
as ended at six o'clock on Wednesday - we having seen the
land at five o'clock on that day. About ten minutes before
seeing land, the Captain asked me if I would double the bet
about seeing land before midnight, to which I agreed at
once, and so gained!
Thursday, December 12th
At daybreak I was on deck and as the sun rose the land
looked lovely. The boys agreed with me it was very like the
Isle of Man coast from Castletown to Douglas, only that the
low hills and precipitous cliffs along the shore are here densely
wooded. Great disputes were rife as to whether the wood was
forest or not. It seems to me that there are large trees in the
interior, far up the hillsides, dwarfed gradually as they
approach and line (as they do) the water's edge. No signs of
human habitations. Dead leaves and seaweed in great patches
drift past the ship. The wind is almost gone at eight o'clock.
One specimen of gull has been seen this morning about the
ship - the only other birds are the Cape pigeons. This morning
they have replaced the cutter on the davits, and the strain has
opened a seam which lets the water, as they wash decks,
come in streams into the cabin. The only sign of the 'Traps'
was breakers about nine miles out to sea - bearing E.S.E. by
a very remarkable pillar of rock upon a headland which
seems, with another headland opposite, to form the entrance
to a harbour. After breakfast the wind came to E.N.E., foul
of course - and we stood for a while from land in a thick fog.
On the other tack we hoped to weather S.E. Cape, the eastern
point of Stewart's Island. Sun and air delicious in quality.
Hosts innumerable of Cape pigeons. A bronze pigeon and a
seal were seen and remain about the ship. We stood in for
Foveaux's Straits till two o'clock, keeping close to the land
on the south side. We recognized by the map as we passed
them successively - S.E. Cape, Port Adventure & Port Somes,
distinguished by the remarkable Saddle' Hill overtopping it.
From two till four we stood out again, then tacked to the
northward and were becalmed, remaining so nearly all night.
Friday, December 13th
The wind remained hard and fresh to the same foul
quarter and we stood out from six a.m. to twelve on a losing
tack to the eastward, lying about E. and by S. Land is out
of sight and the dreary monotony of sea and sky is again felt,
causing now aggravated despair from the short glimpse we
had yesterday. No one now imagines that we shall be in
port before Sunday evening. However the climate makes up
for all disappointment. The day as not as clear as yesterday,
but the air is mild and fresh; and when the sun comes out is
positively luxurious. We stood on towards shore till five
o'clock, and then, when within a couple of miles, tacked and
stood off again. The coast, with cliff and forest, was most
romantically beautiful - high lands, thickly wooded, un-
dulatmg in every curve, interspersed with patches of sward
of a delicious green. A variety of cavernous indentations
marked the cliffs. The sunset behind them was truly magnificent.
As we stood off from land, we felt every now and then a puff
of a very warm wind, at least ten degrees warmer than the
wind which was then blowing. At the same time we saw on
shore the smoke of what appeared a huge fire; this might have
caused the heat if it had been directly to windward, which it
certainly was not. However, there was evidently much heat on
and in towards the land, for between us and the hill-line we
could distinctly see the 'reverberations' (as I believe they are
called) of heat flickering the air. No one seemed able to account
for the hot puffs. Lightning was seen in the same direction
as evening closed. Wind about N.N.E. We had not gone
far from land when a sail was descried about ten miles to
leeward, at first coming up full with square yards, as if she
had a leading wind through the straits; afterwards she stood
off and on, as if baffled like ourselves. A mad scheme was
set on foot for going on shore here and travelling through the
bush past Otago territory up to Canterbury. Wortley, Bowen &
Cholmondeley the chief instigators. Fortunately we did not
stand in near enough to the shore to make it convenient to
land them.
Saturday, December 14th
All night we stood on a losing tack off the land, and in
the morning watch stood again towards a headland which
we hardly hoped to weather. Before we had got in far the
wind shifted a little and we at last stood our course, N.N.E.,
up the land. After an hour or two the wind came more free
and at last dead aft. The headland, we discovered by latitude
observations, to be Cape Saunders in the Otago Settlement,
which discovery, as we had imagined ourselves to be at least
100 miles further to the south, was the greatest possible relief.
We looked at the Otago coast with much interest. Smoke
from fires here and there on the shore and more inland were
the earliest evidences of civilization which our glimpses of
New Zealand had yet afforded us. We pronounced them to
be the 'clearing' fires of the settlers along the Molyneux,
Clutha, Taieri & Otago proper, districts, which we recog-
nized successively by the map as we passed them. The most
conspicuous objects from the sea are two bold hills - one the
'Saddle' Hill, the other the 'Green' Hill of the map. They are
near one another and stand prominent from the plain. The
character of the country, what George Robins would have
called 'parklike'. The scenery diversified by hill, dale, wood
level grass On the whole we were much delighted with its
appearance. The emigrants seem enchanted with the appear-
ance of the country - especially Andy. The excursion scheme
is totally given up of course. Today I engaged Robert and
Margaret Wilson at £4o a year and novæ tabulæ! She to do
the washing and attendance upon us. At eight o'clock we
stand a good. N.N.E. course-stun' sails set, and wind from
S.W. - but reported at nine to be drawing forward and the
scud coming from the N.E. over the moon. No sight of the
other ship the whole day.
Sunday, December 15th
When I went on deck there was no sign of land but about
ten o'clock the high lands of Banks' Peninsula were discerned
in the haze right ahead. Great joy in consequence. We were
a long time getting within good view, as the wind was in-
creasingly light. However, by puff and starts we neared it,
but so far to leeward that the whole of the day was lost in
beating up from point to point, and at eight o'clock we stood
on Akaroa Harbour with the wind at N. The first impression
of Canterbury district, in which are reckoned the hills of
Banks' Peninsula, were certainly not favourable. High (very
high) and irregular hills clothed to appearance with a brown
grass, seemed monotonous and scarcely relieved enough by
the shadows cast in their undulations. As we grew nearer
the shadows in many instances turned out to be groves of
trees, a ravine & the side of a hill-top now and then well-
wooded. One or two little farm houses we could see nestling
near such groves in delightful and picturesque situations. The
sward seemed close and well adapted for a sheep run and the
country is altogether only adapted for pasturage. Akaroa
Harbour is so closely hidden by the projection of its heads as
we approached it, that it was a long time before we made it
out - but when we did, we saw it at once to be a most
enchanting spot and we all vowed to give it a closer visit
before long. As we opened up the mouth of it; steering along
E.N.E., we saw where the high wooded mountain must
descend to the water's edge on one side, and how the perpen-
dicular cliff on the other must charm by contrast. This was
at the entrance of the harbour only, and we could only guess
what the rest must be which winds inland completely land-
locked, for seven miles. It must surely be a bit of Paradise,
and must become a Richmond or Killarney some day hence.
The emigrants are all arrayed in their cleanest and best, having
expected to land this evening. Now it is a doubt whether, if
this wind continue, we shall even come to anchor to-morrow.
Willy McCormick has brought out the blue swallow-tail
and brass buttons, and with White trousers and well-brushed
boots, looks divine. Today at service was produced a Te
Deum intended to be sung at landing; but every one pro-
nounced it hideous - and so it was; for the most part a solo
by the schoolmaster with nose obligato accompaniment, it is
as unfit to be an expression of our united thanksgiving as
Conte gentil would be. At dinner we had the champagne
which I and the Captain lost to Wortley and FitzGerald -
the ninety-eight days, in favour of which we bet, having
expired today at noon.
Monday, December 16th
I got op early and went on deck to find that having
weathered everything in the night we were gradually approach-
ing our side of Banks' Peninsula and in fact standing direct
for Port Cooper. The land we passed was most beautifully
situated - high and wooded, with glades of grass running
up through the forest here and there. We were all enchanted
as fresh beauties broke on our view every moment. We passed
successively Okain's Bay, Pigeon Bay, Port Levy and soon
entered Port Cooper. We stood for about three miles through
high brown hills with not a speck of life upon them to be
seen. Till at last we saw a line of road, sloping upwards
across one of the hills, and soon specks of labourers could be
seen working at this road. All our eyes were strained to see
if any ships were lying there - we at last saw two, and dire
was the consternation, for we imagined we must be the third-
beaten by two. A mile more proved to us that one was a
ship-of-war, and the other a vessel too small to be one of
ours. And so it came to pass - we rounded to, under the
stern of the Fly corvette and cast anchor behind her. The
other was the little Barbara Gordon which had left England in
May. As we rounded to, we shot past a little point of land,
and the town of Lyttelton burst upon our view - like a little
village - but nothing more than a village, in snugness, neatness
and pretty situation (under a high hill partly wooded). As
soon as we came to anchor, a boat with an officer came off
from the Fly and had an interview with the Captain below.
Soon a boat came off from shore, containing the officer of
Customs, and another with Dampier and my old school,
fellow Torlesse on board. He welcomed me heartily and
told me all the news, which was merely that they had lain
dead and buried for the last eight or nine months in perfect
inaction, without money or anything to do. The road was
only half finished and (what I was sorry to hear) there were
but few houses or lodgings, either built by the Association
or in private hands. Notices had been issued warning people
not to build, and this is the consequence. I anticipate com-
plaints of the loudest kind from those of the better class,
who seem to have been led to expect shelter of some
sort provided for them, and will not be able to get any
for love or money. We went ashore with Torlesse and walked
up the hill, examining with curiosity every plant, stone &
insect. Our hands, and soon our arms, soon became full of
specimens. After a toilsome walk, over a path newly cut out,
and in some places not finished, we reached the top of the
hills, and looked down upon the plains and the sea on the
other side. Though the haze partly concealed the view, it was
magnificent - a vast level, brown & sandy to appearance but
described as rich and fertile land, stretched away to the Snowy
Mountains, or rather to a ridge of grassy hills at the foot of the
Snowy Mountains - Kaikora and Mount Torlesse, the highest
of all, were pointed out and easily seen. The sea washed one
side of the plain, and its surface was traced by the lines of
several rivers, and dotted with a few clumps of trees - some
more than clumps being of good extent-a goodly range of
wood lay under the grassy hills before mentioned. I imagine
there will not be, on the plains at least, or anywhere but in
Port Lyttelton, a scarcity of timber or firewood. We will
nearly all choose a good situation for these purposes. We
descended by another path to the town, and in our way passed
through a small specimen of New Zealand bush. It was but
a patch of scrub, but inside the path lay under or through
trees, and the beauty of the underwood, the smell of flowers &
scented leaves was incomparable. The shrubs were various -
some looking like rhododendron - there were also varieties of
myrtle fuchsia and acacia. Few were in flower. The only
flowers visible were clematis and convolvulus (white), larger
than I had ever seen them in England. Here and there were
remains-roots, trunks and branches-of various useful trees
whose qualities for dye, medicine and tanning, &c., Torlesse
pointed out as we passed along. Wild cabbage and sow-
thistle were growing plentifully everywhere, and the flowers
were hepaticas and perennial (white) flax. Two or three
daisies, too, were picked up. The native flax grows every,
where, and so does the anise plant and the tutu - the latter
fatal to, and the former most excellent for, cattle. We reached
the town in time to be taken on board in the Captain's gig,
having previously looked into several houses, in one of which
we were regaled with new milk by a lone woman whose
husband left her last year for California. A well, a powder
magazine, emigrants' agents' houses were the only public
buildings in the town - rude and simple all. Private houses - a
few - two hotels, the Mitre and the Lyttelton Arms, no more
than small grogshops with a loft and an outhouse. As we
reached the beach, the Governor's boat came off from the
Fly; He had come round from the Auckland Islands in her
and was going back to Wellington and the North. His private
Secretary, Nugent, I soon recognized, and introduced our-
selves. He spoke very kindly, and in the evening he came on
board to visit us and gave us some good advice - among other
things to cut the town at once and take to the bush. He intends
to go home in two years. He gives a poor account of the
Auckland Islands for cold and barrenness. We went to
dinner on board - but I had such a headache that life for the
rest of the day was a burden to me. After dinner a ship was
discovered coming in, and lo! it was the Randolph. We gave
and received three cheers as she came up alongside. The
Captain and Wortley went off, but I was too unwell. The
news from her was that there had been disagreeables on board
of all kinds. A mutiny among the sailors - the Captain having
had to warn the cuddy passengers. There was also a rumour of
pistols among the cabin passengers. Fisher in the evening
unrolled a plan of getting a boat to carry all our goods and
people round the heads to the Plain near some bush and
river, and rough it out there away from the town till the land
was portioned out. As this plan agreed with Captain Nugent's
advice I agreed to it, and as soon as we can make arrangements,
it is to be done.
Tuesday, December 17th
The confusion beginning. About twelve o'clock went
on board the Fly to present a letter from the Council of
Colonists to the Governor, praying for his influence with
the Custom House officers to have our baggage, intended
for personal use, landed free of duty. The Governor being
on board the Randolph at prayers, we loitered and gossiped
about the deck with the officers who were of the usual
stamp in gentleman-like civility and conducted us about
the ship. They had just come from the Auckland Islands.
The Governor soon came on board with Captain Nugent,
and I was introduced to him. He talked with me for
a long time giving advice and his opinion that Canter-
bury must 'go ahead'. His ideas of the duties of the
customs were generous enough, but his powers limited - no
control over the customs, and he could only volunteer his
advice. After talking some time longer we went off. Meantime
the Sir George Seymour came in and anchored abreast of us.
She had sailed on Sunday, the eighth, so that we only beat
her in point of time by two hours. Some of the emigrants
went ashore today and were put in the barracks - Andy and
Caughey among the rest.
Converted to electronic form by Corey Woodw@rd
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